Glenn Martens Fall 2013-------
Label: Glenn Martens
Need to Know: Twenty-nine-year-old Glenn Martens hails from Bruges, Belgium—a town on the country’s northwestern coast that is often called the “Venice of the North.” Martens’ Bruges childhood is a constant influence, evident in the designer’s gothic, ecclesiastical aesthetic. After working with Bruno Pieters in Belgium and Jean Paul Gaultier in Paris, Martens launched his eponymous line last year. Now in his third season, Martens has quickly earned a reputation for his sharp, subtle designs, architectural tailoring, elongated shapes, and Flemish Primitive-inspired photo-collage prints. For Fall ’13, the designer thought about the moment in life when one turns from a wild child into an adult—the tipping point when adolescence becomes maturity. This translated into voluminous, fluid, floor-length T-shirt dresses, which he showed in duchesse satin, stiff cotton Modal, and double-layered mesh. They were slit down the back and closed at the neck with simple brass clasps. Pleated skirts with hidden slits had a subtle sexiness, and textures were a strong focus.
He Says: “Pleats are easy to wear, because they provide additional volume. Even when the silhouette is stiff and structured, pleats create flow and comfort.”
Where to Find It: RA in Paris and Antwerp, and online at farfetch.com.