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September 2 2014

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Nicholas Kirkwood’s Over-The-Top Fall '13

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Nicolas Kirkwood has been pondering luxury materials of late. And his musings about fur, lace, and python resulted in a sumptuous and over-the-top Fall '13 collection. Take, for instance, his towering black ankle boots with Baroque embroidery, his open-toe heels garnished with tufts of purple fur, or the fin-like lace that grew out of some of his sky-high pumps. On the classic side, there were pearl-trimmed offerings, and some of Kirkwood’s details, like sharp zigzags, provided a graphic punch. “I really approach my collections by just doodling, and those lines evolve into shapes kind of organically,” explained the designer, adding that he enjoys exploring new techniques. “This was my second try at embroidery, and it was really fun.”

Speaking of fun new things, back in January, Kirkwood debuted his first men’s collection. The designer lifted some techniques from his women’s line for the range, like ticking out patterns in tiny gold studs or using black and blue zigzags to jazz up a classic brogue. The reaction to those models was so strong among Kirkwood’s female friends that he spun out some of them, like the Chelsea boots, for women, too.

Photo: Courtesy of Nicholas Kirkwood

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