Shanghai Fashion Week’s Fall ’13 Standouts-------
Fall 2013 was arguably the most polished and directional Shanghai fashion week to date. Womenswear designer Qiu Hao—who scooped the Woolmark Prize in 2008, and WGSN’s Breakthrough Designer Award in 2011—presented his first ever runway show (above). And it lived up to the hype. Well-constructed and impeccably styled, the collection included oversized coats, A-line skirts, and deep V dresses in luxe plaid checked prints, textured blacks, and creamy whites.
Experimental Xiamen-based design house Sankuanz revealed its debut collaboration between lead designer Shangguan Zhe and artist Chen Tian. The show was an irreverent take on religion, and fused Tibetan silhouettes, Native American totemism, Catholic and Buddhist symbolism, and even voodoo references. Looks in opulent papal velvets and silks came in jewel tones like cardinal red, saffron, and white. Suits were hand-embroidered and printed with an eclectic array of insects and dragons, and snapback caps, slouchy hooded coats, and white worker boots had a streetwear feel. Zhe alternated between razor-sharp tailoring and deconstruction; trousers were worn baggy and rolled at the ankle, and a few androgynous robes and skirts were thrown into the mix.
London-based Fashion Fringe award winner Haizhen Wang showcased his collection from London Fashion Week to a packed home crowd. Leading the charge on the international stage, he wants to make his mark in the motherland. “The vibe, the spirit, the passion here in Shanghai is overwhelming,” he said. Creating signature silhouettes for a bold warrior woman, Wang showed militaristic jackets with oversized cuffs and bold collars.
Shanghai Fashion Week veteran Helen Lee combined futuristic and vintage looks. Bomber jackets, buckled shoes and diaphanous skirts all stood out, but the silver moons that dangled from the models’ wrists were particularly covetable.