Land of the Setting Sun
Milanese runways are feeling the heat, as troves of Italy’s presenters this menswear season have rendered sunset-inspired motifs on their wares, from ombré fadeaways to photo-realistic Atlantic twilights.
Calvin Klein‘s Italo Zucchelli showed a brilliant jumper aflame in solar fuchsia—a depiction of the view from his Fire Island summer home (above, right). Zucchelli also looked to James Turrell’s light sculptures—a timely nod, considering the artist’s much-hyped summer installation at New York’s Guggenheim Museum. Moschino, too, lensed a vivid, filmic gloaming on a range of bathing suits.
Dame Vivienne Westwood sent her boys to a sort of pan-global beach town, lending a sun-kissed casualness to her agitprop beat. One periwinkle-turned-rose-petal top caught our eye in particular. But it was Fendi‘s blur on a simple silken T-shirt that won the ombré challenge, hazily recalling a scorching desert (above, left).
And then there’s Prada (above, center). Miuccia gamely explored the underbelly of paradises then and now—spurring thoughts of wartime Vietnam (helicopters on the soundtrack) and seedy Honolulu racketeers. A series of bombers—heat-pressed with dusk-time littoral snapshots—perfectly encapsulated Prada’s ominous tropical sundown.