September 3 2014

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The Peplum Prevails


Peplum Resort looks from Alexander Wang, Christopher Kane, and Honor

It’s the hit that won’t quit. Having made a comeback in Fall ’12, peplums remains a strong draw, particularly for the latest Resort collections. “Peplums are pretty exuberant,” Honor’s Giovanna Randall said of the tailoring tool she used to punctuate her impressionist-inspired Resort collection. Used to define a waist (or create the impression of one, as Randall admits to doing during pregnancy), the right peplum can fit, flatter, and add a new dimension of femininity. “When I design, I usually think about what’s happening above and below the peplum, rather than the peplum itself,” the designer said of the blush two-piece look whose curved peplum elongates the legs (above, right). “It divides the body in a very decisive way, so it’s all about striking the right balance.”

Christopher Kane played with the boy-girl divide in his Resort presentation, lightening a puppytooth woven two-piece suit with both oversize crystal buttons and a shortened peplum hem (above, center)—an exciting new tailoring detail for the designer. Alexander Wang, loyal to clean lines, juxtaposed his all-too-familiar sport elements with a flare of fabric. The result was a subtle peplum that played against the tough leather details in his Resort range (above, lefy). Mary Katrantzou also incorporated a few sculpted peplums in her Resort oeuvre, all of which brought smooth, architectural lines to her landscape-printed wares.

The trend continues on the red carpet, too. All eyes were on Angelina Jolie at the Berlin premiere of World War Z, to which she wore a custom Ralph & Russo white peplum midi offset by gold hardware that flattered her delicate frame. On Jolie, the trend proved it’s got legs yet.

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