The Best of Berlin
Berlin fashion week wrapped this weekend. The Spring ’14 schedule had a few noticeable holes, with German powerhouses Escada and Hugo Boss opting to present elsewhere. But their absence only made the spotlight shine brighter on local brands.
One of the best moments of the season (along with the parade of memorable street-style experiments) was Achtland’s collection (left), which offered expertly layered garments in silk and cotton. The following day, Augustin Teboul unveiled a theatrical, and equally impressive, all-black Spring ’14 range. Models took to the runway in beaded leather leggings, cropped jackets, wrapped cardigans, and elaborate jeweled headpieces. Cult favorite Vladimir Karaleev didn’t disappoint, either, presenting a conceptual compendium of geometrically patterned fabrics and asymmetrical cuts.
Returning to Berlin from Paris this season, Kaviar Gauche turned out a futuristic, off-white collection. At contemporary art space St. Agnes, the label debuted jackets with minimalistic wave finishes, see-through dresses with floral embroidery, and leather blouses and coats.
On Thursday, we saw a ladylike collection from Schumacher. With its whimsical prints of cartoon explosions, which appeared on silk scarves and skirts, the lineup had a pop-art feel. Meanwhile, Dawid Tomaszewski—a longtime favorite of editors and buyers—introduced capes, trousers, and oversize silk dresses with prints reminiscent of rattan. There were caftans cinched at the front with rope knot brooches, and the designer embellished some of his wares with beads and rhinestones.
At Lala Berlin, Leyla Piedayesh turned heads with her spiky fluorescent pink pullover (left). Set inside the attic of a former opera-costume workshop, the standout show featured jackets, pullovers, micro-shorts, and bright silk caftans printed with various examples of flora and fauna.
On Friday, Moga E Mago sent postapocalyptic ensembles down a pitch-black catwalk, which was illuminated only by flashlights given to audience members. Fringy, hairy sleeves adorned some of the cutout bodysuits, and a chain overlay covered dresses and translucent nylon onesies.
Finally, Michalsky closed out the week with its bold menswear and womenswear collections. For him, there were pleated chinos, bomber jackets, leather tracksuits, and silver trainers. For her, silk miniskirts and sleeveless blouses, metallic leather tube tops, and belted minidresses in navy and yellow. Long skirts and pantsuits covered with broad brushstroke and splatter patterns in gray and bright orange made for some of the strongest looks.