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August 23 2014

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Three’s a Trend: Branching Out

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Branched Couture looks from Valentino, Maison Martin Margiela, and Zuhair Murad  At the Fall ’13 Couture shows, a trio of houses uprooted the bright and breezy blossoms we’ve seen of late (just take a look through the recent Resort ’14 and menswear shows, and you’ll see what we’re talking about) for a more subdued, somewhat edgier take on flora: branch and stem motifs.

Zuhair Murad printed leafless twigs across a number of dramatic gowns (above, right), evoking a pop-noir winter wonderland of sorts. In its chimerically zany collection of repurposed vintage, Swarovski spikes, and yet more Kanye-favored face masks, Maison Martin Margiela showed a fuchsia column overlaid with embroidered wildflower stems (above, center). And, lastly, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli produced a dazzling cosmos of natural-world-inspired wares at Valentino. Here, it was coral that reached around heavy brocade (above, left) and crawled up silk insets. Sure, coral is technically fauna, but its sinewy offshoots are branches nonetheless.

Photos: Yannis Vlamos/ InDigital/ GoRunway (Valentino); Marcus Tondo/ InDigital/ GoRunway (Maison Martin Margiela); Alessandro Viero/ InDigital/ GoRunway (Zuhair Murad)

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