The Next Big Thing: Alon Livné, Spring ’14-------
Everyone knows their Marcs from their Calvins. But as fashion month kicks into gear, we’ll be spotlighting the up-and-coming designers and indie brands whose names you’ll want to remember.
Label: Alon Livné
Need to Know: Israeli designer Alon Livné’s career was kick-started in part thanks to a much-publicized turn designing costumes for Beyoncé’s Mrs. Carter World Tour. With that momentum behind him, he’s returned to New York for a sophomore season. A front row that included Paris Hilton and Rose McGowan was a testament to the fact that Livné does not design for the faint of heart. His Spring ’14 collection was a 1980s vision of the future—albeit significantly softer than, say, Blade Runner. White tops bore slashes of saturated pastel color to evoke lasers, and metallic gold accents abounded. The looks were futuristic, but not bloodless: Layers and spiraling accents seen on sleeves managed to feel organic, almost like the folds of a flower. These are clothes that occupy space, show skin, and generally assert Livné’s considerable ambition. Many of the pieces would be most at home on Queen Bey, onstage in all of her glory. But despite any initial doubts about wearability, the collection isn’t without pieces that are, indeed, ready to wear. A boxy white minidress managed to be both architectural and flattering enough for those of us with less willowy frames. Elsewhere, a square space-age top was paired with black chiffon high-waisted trousers that were more Katharine Hepburn than Grace Jones, one of Livné’s spring muses.
He Says: “My last collection here in New York was all black, black on black, so in this collection, I tried to make something fun and happy but also stay within my signature look. I could say strong, feminine, self-confident—many things like this, but the most important thing to me is an intelligent woman who actually can appreciate the art behind the dresses.”
Where to Find It: Neiman Marcus, Barney’s New York, and Net-a-Porter, among others.