The Next Big Thing: Helen Louise Lawrence, Spring ’14
Everyone knows their Marcs from their Calvins. But as fashion month kicks into gear, we’ll be spotlighting the up-and-coming designers and indie brands whose names you’ll want to remember.
Label: Helen Louise Lawrence
Need to know: Only eighteen months out of Central Saint Martins’ M.A. fashion program, 26-year-old Helen Louise Lawrence has emerged as a multifaceted—if not prodigious—knitwear technician. Hailing from just outside northern England’s Newcastle, the designer spent a year assisting on-the-rise menswear star Craig Green (he shows under London’s MAN platform) before presenting her debut capsule collection this season with Fashion Scout. Here, Lawrence sought to bring a “bit more of a commercial angle” to her unconventional knits. That approach was gamely realized on a baby pink jumper replete with “scribble” embroideries on the sleeves. She also made use of PVC overlays and molecular patchwork—again, enlivened by her hand-drawn squiggle motif.
She Says: “Up close, the knits have layers and layers. Every piece is hand-dyed in my kitchen, and then it’s printed and embroidered. Oddly, they feel like rubber.”
Where to Find It: Visit the designer’s Web site to inquire about private orders.