The Next Big Thing: Mathieu Mirano, Spring ’14
Everyone knows their Marcs from their Calvins. But as fashion month kicks into gear, we’ll be spotlighting the up-and-coming designers and indie brands whose names you’ll want to remember.
Label: Mathieu Mirano
Need to Know: Twenty-two year-old Mathieu Mirano knows a thing or two about luxury. With three collections under his belt, Mirano, a former Parsons the New School for Design student, has established himself as a young designer who eschews fleeting trends for high-quality fabrics, classic silhouettes, and couture techniques, or what he calls “extreme luxury.” (This raison d’être may have attracted latest fan and somewhat-reformed sartorial shocker Lady Gaga, for whom Mirano designed the much-buzzed-about sculptural white frock made out of paper for her recent Good Morning America outing.) For Spring ’14, Mirano traded vellum for Italian exotic skins and French lace to dress a woman who he calls “expensive and sophisticated.” To wit, the tightly edited collection showed a great attention to construction and texture with platinum-foil python cocktail dresses that grazed the midcalf, plastic-bonded lace “raincoats,” tailored silk-stretch suiting, and a plethora of boned bralettes, all with corset detailing. One standout included a party frock that took more than three hundred hours to handcraft and featured gilded pheasant feathers embellished with real rose petals, which were then preserved in resin. The color palette ranged from nude to siren red, a nod to muses Rita Hayworth and Lolita. Mirano, who admitted Ms. Gaga herself might have influenced the collection’s seductive attributes (see: leather harnesses and see-through cellophane shifts), imagines his clothes to be worn on the streets of Paris or on holiday in the Caribbean. Up next? The native New Yorker revealed he has more collaborations in the works with the “Applause” singer and hinted at an upcoming project with Katy Perry.
He Says: “This collection is all about the femme fatale who underneath it all is a little bit sinister and almost evil; not everything is what it seems.”
Where to Find It: Mirano currently takes private orders on his Web site, www.mathieumirano.com.