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April 19 2014

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The Final Countdown: Style File’s Top Stories of 2013

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Catherine Baba

The fashion biz has had quite a year. 2013 was jam-packed with major designer shakeups, groundbreaking ad campaigns, celebrity collaborations, and pop star performance wardrobes filled with custom-made designer duds. In the final days leading up to 2014, we’re counting down Style File’s most popular twenty stories of the year. So sit back, relax, and relive 2013′s unforgettable moments. Let’s kick things off with numbers twenty through sixteen, below.

20. Rihanna and River Island Take London Fashion Week
Rihanna stirred up some anarchy in the U.K. when she and Adam Selman debuted their risqué River Island collection at London fashion week in February. Style.com had a front-row-seat to the star’s design debut.

19. Maison Kitsuné’s Retro Pop Experience
Gildas Loaëc and Masaya Kuroki, the talents behind cult fashion brand-cum-record label Maison Kitsuné, were Pitti W’s Fall ’13 guest designers. And in keeping with their quirky, multidisciplinary roots, the pair put on a riotous musical fashion presentation. Style.com was on the scene to document their sixties-themed extravaganza.

18. Dior Walks the Red Square
Last July, for the second time in history, Dior staged a show in Moscow’s Red Square. As you can imagine, the festivities, which were hosted inside a purpose-built mirrored pavilion, were brimming with glitz and glamour—albeit of Dior’s sleek and tasteful variety. Designer and Style Map contributor Vika Gazinskaya took us inside the memorable affair.

17. Playboy‘s Artist Pals Are Rethinking Sexy—But Is It Porn or Art?
Playboy has had a big year, what with Kate Moss covering its sixtieth anniversary issue and Richard Phillips’ controversial Playboy Marfa installation. Back in May, the magazine’s new director of special projects, curator Neville Wakefield, asked artists Aaron Young, Malerie Marder, and Alex Israel to create works featuring Playmate of the Year Raquel Pomplun. So we asked the question—were the results porn or art?

16. Bike Like Baba
In 2013, just six years after Paris inaugurated its shared vélo program, New York finally caught up and launched its ever-popular Citi Bikes. But traffic-inducing tourists aren’t the only ones using the vehicles—the bicycles were a popular mode of transport at New York fashion week. During the Spring ’14 shows, we talked to eccentric stylist and cyclist extraordinaire Catherine Baba about the dos and don’ts of biking about town.

Photo: Tommy Ton

Vivienne Westwood, Dame of Punk, Takes a Turn at the Ballet

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Vivienne Westwood's costumes for the Vienna State Ballet

Talk about dichotomy: Vivienne Westwood, she of SEX and naked cowboys T-shirt fame, has designed a collection of romantic costumes for the Vienna State Ballet that will be worn by dancers during a New Year’s concert on Wednesday. Despite her punk past, the Dame has, of course, proven her adeptness in creating lavish, impeccably draped feminine frocks and gowns, and the dancers’ silk and tulle wares are of this school. In fact, one costume is a riff on a look from Westwood’s Spring ’14 collection. But it’s not all prim and proper attire—according to WWD, Westwood has put some of the dancers in her famed tartan kilts and bustiers. As the old saying goes, you can take the designer out of 430 Kings Road…

Photo: ORF/Günther Pichlkostner, via WWD

The Modeling Moments to Remember from 2013

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Miranda KerrThere’s really never been a better time to be a model. Many will argue with me that the pinnacle of the profession was the glory days of Naomi, Christy, Linda, and Cindy. But they never had social media. In 2013, we witnessed the rise of a new class of supers who have since become household names. Cheeky Brit Cara Delevingne has amassed over 3.5 million followers on Instagram and is trailed by paparazzi everywhere she goes. Last week, Joan Smalls, Jourdan Dunn, and Chanel Iman became pop stars in their own right with the release of Beyoncé’s “Yoncé” music video, in which they dance like divas alongside Queen B. Hell, they’re even reclaiming the covers of fashion magazines.

This year, I was also thrilled to see a few of my favorite catwalk veterans make comebacks. Naomi herself had jaws on the floor when she opened and closed the Atelier Versace show—looking fiercer than ever—back in July. After a couple of years off the runways, Catherine McNeil walked in forty-two Fall shows (she’s kept the momentum going with a profusion of ad campaigns and editorials, in addition to an impressive Spring season), and Daria Werbowy had a cameo at Balenciaga. Who doesn’t love @dotwillow? As for the hottest newcomer? That prize goes to Edie Campbell, who was crowned Model of the Year earlier this month at the British Fashion Awards.

Here, a year’s worth of model high points.

Home for the Holidays

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Vuitton Bear

Our shopping is just about finished, and cravings for eggnog and gingerbread men are setting in. The holidays are fast approaching, and not unlike this furry fellow (who’s got some enviable travel gear, we might add), our bags are packed and we’re heading home to toast the season with our kin. We’ll be back bright and early on Thursday morning, but should you find yourself jonesing for a dose of sartorial cheer, it’s never too early to start planning your New Year’s look. Happy holidays to all!

Photo: Nicole Wisniak for Egoiste N. 16

Pitti Weighs In on the Overcrowded Menswear Calendar

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Pitti Uomo

“We’ve offered so many olive branches,” Dylan Jones, the editor in chief of British GQ, and chairman of the London Collections: Men, told WWD last week. “[The Italian organizers] seem to be intransigent and don’t appear to be particularly interested in working with London, so we’re just going to go ahead.” His statement was in response to an ongoing scheduling conflict that the newly established London menswear shows, which will run from January 6 through 8, have with Florence’s long-standing menswear fair, Pitti Immagine Uomo, whose eighty-fifth installment is set for January 7 through 10. In an interview with Style.com today, however, Pitti CEO Raffaello Napoleone and director of special events and projects Lapo Cianchi argue that they’ve been more than cooperative. “We have had very good conversations with [British Fashion Council chairman] Caroline Rush,” offered Napoleone. “And we are totally open to finding a balance and solution to this situation.”

The concern on both parties’ ends is that, due to the current two-day overlap, editors and buyers will have to choose one fair over the other, and will miss key events in either city. Burberry, for instance, will present its Fall ’14 menswear lineup at 2 p.m. in London on January 7. Meanwhile, Diesel Black Gold—Pitti 85′s guest brand—is meant to hold its Fall ’14 show in Florence later that evening. Pitti’s (rather opulent) answer this time around is to charter a plane and fly about fifty editors to Florence immediately following the Burberry show.

The problem ends up involving all four major menswear cities: If Pitti were pushed back to accommodate London, Milan and Paris would have to alter their calendars as well. According to Napoleone, the Pitti team proposed a fix, to which Milan and Paris are reportedly not opposed: London would always run from January 6 through 8, Pitti would begin on the 8th, Milan on the 12th, and so on. “We’d have to show on the weekend, which is not exactly what we feel would be best for our clients or exhibitors,” expressed Napoleone, noting that while there would still be a one-day overlap, it was at least an improvement. “But as the French say, faute de mieux—if there are no other solutions, you have to accept it. The last time I was in London with Dylan and Caroline, I left them this very fair proposal, and we didn’t receive any answer.” As for why Pitti didn’t just concede to start on January 8 this season, Napoleone said, “The seventh was decided with Milan and Paris two years ago, before the new London fashion week had started.”

Napoleone insists that he has “no idea” what inspired Jones’ comment. “Dylan Jones is a supporter of Pitti. He always attends,” said Cianchi. “The real olive branch in this story is that every city is open to renouncing something. We are completely open,” Napoleone added.

Courtesy of Pitti Uomo