August 28 2014

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Martine Rose and Opening Ceremony Go On a Gender-Bender


Martine Rose

Martine Rose

The new collection by London-based designer Martine Rose, which debuts exclusively here, will hit Opening Ceremony this week. Though Rose is technically a menswear designer, the Opening Ceremony honchos decided to treat the line as unisex when they picked it up for their stores. And indeed, Rose’s ruffled jackets and roughed-up denim have an appeal that’s pretty genderless: Witness this shoot by Rose’s longtime friend Tyrone Lebon of his girlfriend, Adwoa Aboah, kicking around in some of the looks that will be on the racks at OC. For her part, Rose has a particular angle on the whole androgyny thing. “I wasn’t interested in androgyny as such,” Rose explained. “I was thinking about men throughout history who have broken the conventional gender rules of clothing, men with an overt sexual energy who used feminine looks to underline their masculinity.” Specifically, Rose added, her muse this season was Rick James. And as for Lebon and Aboah’s gender-bending? It turns out, Rose is plenty used to seeing Aboah in her clothes. “Well,” she says, “she walked in my very first catwalk show…”

Photos: Tyrone Lebon

Designer Update