A New Beginning for Pedro del Hierro Madrid
Delpozo isn’t the only revived Spanish label that turned heads during New York fashion week. Pedro del Hierro Madrid, too, made a strong showing during its sophomore presentation. Founded in 1974 by its namesake couturier, the house is currently owned by Cortefiel, which relaunched the brand’s luxury collection in 2013. With veteran designer Carmen March at its creative helm, Pedro del Hierro Madrid is aiming to break into the U.S. market this year.
March has a penchant for infusing a touch of Spanish history into her collections, and Fall ’14 was no exception. “I was inspired by a novel called Nada, which means ‘nothing’ in Spanish,” explained March, who hails from Majorca. “It was written in the forties and is about a woman who arrives in a new city after a horrible time, and how excited she is about her new beginning.”
March’s postwar inspiration resulted in a collection filled with rich textures, structured silhouettes, and pops of color. One look—a sculpted A-line black-and-white tweed skirt paired with matching knee-high boots and a chunky sweater—recalled an abstract Christopher Wool painting. And its proportions tricked the eye; it was almost as if the boots were growing out of the ensemble’s sweeping hem. Other standouts included a mustard-and-black-check full-length vest, shown with matching trousers, boots, and a black leather blouse, as well as a black haircalf sweater with dark plaid sleeves worn atop skinny black trousers.
The volume here was key—not only did it make for bold, interesting shapes, but it also had a strong link to March’s Fall concept. “In forties Spain, you had a lot of people down on the street with borrowed clothes that were slightly too big. I wanted to create that sensation with the silhouette,” March said.
But where were her optimistic Fall woman’s more celebratory wares? Those came in the form of a latex-coated lace jumpsuit, a bright green one-piece, and a violet trousers-and-blouse combo. The latter two were covered in graphic malachite prints. Less obviously cheery was a layered gray tweed suit that comprised a cropped bolero jacket, a fitted waistcoat, and an asymmetrical skirt. The woman wearing that isn’t headed to a party—she’s marching out to take her new life by storm.