August 30 2014

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The Next Big Thing: 5:31 Jérôme Fall ’14


Everyone knows their Marcs from their Calvins. But as fashion month kicks into gear, we’ll be spotlighting the up-and-coming designers and indie brands whose names you’ll want to remember.

5:31 Jérôme

Label: 5:31 Jérôme, by Jérôme LaMaar

Need to know: When he set out to design his second collection, Jérôme LaMaar channeled a huntress. He said he wanted to design bold, colorful clothes for a strong, feminine woman. In a palette of fuchsia, raspberry, deep sienna, and rich eggplant, LaMaar’s clothes made a statement. But he kept in mind how women want to dress right now. We want something easy.

Mixed materials, intricate seams, and hidden zippers are becoming LaMaar’s signatures, but his focus on tailoring (honed during an apprenticeship with Ralph Rucci) meant everything looked sharp and refined. LaMaar consciously didn’t include any skirts in the collection, focusing instead on variations of the menswear trouser. Cropped gauchos, silk cargos, and tapered jeans were paired with little mohair sweaters, boxy jackets, and sheer blouses. Silk-and-wool jersey dresses molded to the body, and cocoon coats and sharp blazers were layered on top.

LaMaar’s fabric choices were key to his Fall ’14 success; double-face wool, ponte, silk jersey, suede, alpaca, and rubber were just a few. He played with high-tech materials as well. For instance, there was a utility vest that shifts from olive green to navy blue depending on the temperature. He also used a slick performance fabric for an orchid blazer. It repels water like an anorak, but looks about ten times chicer. For some grit, the designer painted a thick stripe of roughed-up black rubber on the hem of a classic gray blazer—an unexpected and very cool finish. You could see New York’s downtown darlings wearing it over their shoulders with leather pants and high-tops.

He says: “Everything is an evolution from what I did last season—it’s more mature. I want you to wear it,” LaMaar told “I love seams, and I love dresses you can wear to work, but with hidden zippers for sex appeal. I also wanted people to see the emphasis on great tailoring; a great pant can go a really long way.”

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