The Next Big Thing: En Noir, Fall ’14
Everyone knows their Marcs from their Calvins. But as fashion month rolls on, we’ll be spotlighting the up-and-coming designers and indie brands whose names you’ll want to remember.
Label: En Noir, designed by Rob Garcia
Need to know: For Fall 14, En Noir’s Rob Garcia brought out the armor– but not the kind that Arthur and his round table knights would wear. His protective uniforms were of the 21st century variety, and comprised slick black leather wares embellished with chainmail knee patches or sleeves. They were the kind of clothes sure to get steady play from athletes like Amar’e Stoudemire and Victor Cruz, and the rest of the leather clad crowd at last night’s show.
En Noir has been on a quick rise since it introduced its edgy, take-no-prisoners approach to American sportswear three seasons ago. Fall ’14 marked the brand’s first full-fledged runway show, and it was quite an event. Snarkitecture’s Daniel Arsham and Alex Mustonen designed the brand’s Park Avenue Armory runway, which boasted a giant black tunnel beaming with light. It was the perfect dramatic backdrop for Garcia’s dark shearling coats, distressed sequin pants, fur-embellished overcoats and snakeskin track pants.
Garcia knows his way around an MA-1 bomber jacket, and there were a number of standout leather versions that were smooth and sculptural, ribbed and textural. For women, motorcycle jackets were worn over loose velvet tank tops and slouchy pants in shiny exotic skins. The emphasis on military silhouettes best translated into stiffened jackets and pants with contour seams and chain mail. With plans for overseas growth in the works, the early days of training over. Real combat is about to begin.
He says: “Everything thinks basics are small and boring,” said Garcia. “But when you keep things simple, minimal and clean, it allows the details to really shine through.”
Where to find it: Barneys New York, The Webster in Miami, Union in Los Angeles, and coming soon, Selfridges in London.