The Next Big Thing: Pyer Moss, Fall ’14
Everyone knows their Marcs from their Calvins. But as fashion month kicks into gear, we’ll be spotlighting the up-and-coming designers and indie brands whose names you’ll want to remember.
Label: Pyer Moss, designed by Kerby Jean-Raymond
Need to know: Fresh off his best new menswear designer win at this year’s FGI Rising Star Awards, Kerby Jean-Raymond presented his third season of luxury-meets-streetwear at Milk Studios last night. The theme was samurai—a visual rendering of the Japanese warriors’ apparel as affected by “levels of kill,” to be exact. (“They had honorable ‘clean’ versus dishonorable ‘brutal’ kills,” Jean-Raymond explained.) This esoteric reference took shape through jagged leather patchwork pieces on graphic black-and-white pullovers; clean nylon parkas punctuated with aggressive bison panels on sleeves and shoulders; and splice-happy, butter-soft leather drop pants. Sporty touches—the use of the aforementioned microfiber, plus plenty of nylon and a hockey jersey with a samurai motif—reminded us that this line is about comfort and running around, in addition to style. Near the end of the presentation, Usher’s stylist tapped Jean-Raymond’s shoulder to comment, “Can you make this one immediately, for real?” We’re guessing yes.
He says: “We started with the brutal kills in the design process. I imagined what these clothes would look like if they were put back together. I added some plum in the collection to give that bloody, gory look,” he said, later adding, “This is something I’ve always wanted to do since I was a little kid! I wanted to put cashmere and Gor-Tex together. Sue me!”
Where to find it: Ssense.com, Browns of London.