The Next Big Thing: Telfar, Fall ’14-------
Everyone knows their Marcs from their Calvins. But as fashion month rolls on, we’ll be spotlighting the up-and-coming designers and indie brands whose names you’ll want to remember.
Label: Telfar, by Telfar Clemens
Need to know: The theme was “Extremely Normal” at menswear designer Telfar Clemens’ art-star-heavy New Museum show yesterday afternoon. By “normal,” he meant “pretty much like Midtown, the mall…kind of normal things”—the street style of the 9-to-5 masses, if you will. One look at his oversize, manipulated micro-suede hoodies; khaki-styled front-slit bell-bottoms; and elongated, almost clinical mid-thigh-length white coats and it became clear: This collection may be inspired by normal, but it’s not for the average Joe. (But perhaps one only needed to look at the front row, which included Boy Child and the ever-downtown-ubiquitous ATL Twins, to realize that.) An Ugg-like pale brown leather boot cut into three portions and held together by looped up detachable pieces underlined the everyman motif—just adjust for height, take off a piece, pull a tie, or add a link. Any man (or, as Clemens highlighted through the use of two female models, woman) can wear these with a little adaptation. As in the case of the creations of his HBA pal, Clemens’ apparel was largely genderless in nature. The proportions were large—shorts were roomy and hit below mid-calf, dresses were high-necked and loose fit, revealing little of the body. A subtle palette of navys, earthy reds, and muddy browns kept the tone controlled. There’s no need for crazy colors when you toe that fine line between challenging and celebrating the presumably blasê or everyday. The only complaint came in the form of one editor’s rather cheeky hope and suggestion: It would be nice if Clemens had more money so everything wasn’t made out of Snuggies. Yes, a switch in materials wouldn’t be the worst move in elegance—but don’t those slacks look comfortable?
He says: “I’m really inspired by kind of normal things. That’s why we named this installation ‘Extremely Normal.’ You know? Cause it’s like if I was in Kmart, this is how I would do it…Luckily enough, they partnered with us to do this. Really cool.”
Where to find it: Opening Ceremony, VFiles, and coming soon…Kmart.