Dior Homme Spring 2015: Precision, Polish, and Urban Ease-------
What is the allure of Dior Homme circa 2015? That is a question that remained top of mind for Kris Van Assche when conceiving his latest collection. The collection, while labeled as Spring, exists independently from what will appear during men’s fashion week in Paris at the end of the month. Essentially, this is a Resort offering, but Van Assche is hoping that we resist the semantics and focus on the details that matter—like, for example, the precision suiting in seasonless weights and shirts that stand out for their novelty finishings.
During a visit to the Paris showroom, it became clear that Van Assche has picked up where Fall’s linear theme left off. Last season’s sharply drawn lines have given way to sweeping “circuit” curves and kinetic zigzags as embroidery across cotton poplin shirts and light wool pants. The well-spaced dot motif has intensified into graphic pattern—think television static as a knit jacquard and gabardine.
“Pieces from one season respond to pieces from another season,” the designer explained via e-mail. “It is a natural movement since it reflects the evolution of my research on a men’s wardrobe.” That research is most evident in the way he created an elongated, transformable jacket that blurred the lines between Dior Homme’s strict polish and Van Assche’s urban ease. The depthless blue of a leather Perfecto could not have been achieved without much trial, if not error. And apparently, the subtle striping within the weave of a cotton wool—referred to as “rayures aléatoires” (shuffled stripes)—represents a closely guarded handcrafted technique.
For a collection intended to transcend seasonal constraints, Van Assche chose the most timeless of tones: red, green, and blue. A refracted prism palette, he said, channels the visual idioms put forth by early electronic music groups two decades ago. As for all those thumbnail-sized rubber triangles—sometimes stitched onto pockets, sometimes anchoring cuffs—they will demarcate this particular Dior Homme collection in lieu of a logo. Whether they return or not is of less importance than how Van Assche views Dior Homme as a sounding board for incremental innovation. “I’ve always pursued, in different ways, the idea of an ideal wardrobe,” he wrote. “As these collections become more and more important, they become part of a continuum.”