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August 27 2014

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At Nicholas Kirkwood’s Menswear Presentation Debut, “Dope” Shoes For All

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nicholas-kirkwoodNicholas Kirkwood’s debut presentation for his men’s line came via his S/S 2015 outing at London’s Mercer Street Studios, where derbies, oxfords, and brogues took center stage. The standout detail was the chevron sole, a pattern that has become a bit of a signature for the designer. (It even once appeared on the Galaxy Note 3 phone flip-cover for his collaboration with Samsung.) Is the chevron pattern becoming Kirkwood’s red sole? “Not quite,” the designer told Style.com. “Mr. Louboutin uses [red] on all his soles, while my chevron made a cameo as an accent on just a few of the styles. I just really love the modernity of the pattern.”

Designed “for the bloke whose girlfriend loves to wear great shoes,” Kirkwood’s collection has something for everyone, including a few very cool sandals. Of the sandals, which are new to the Kirkwood repertoire, one male observer at the presentation said to his friend, “Man, these are dope.” We agree with him on that.

The designer also told us his newish alliance with LVMH helped him not only cut through the tiresome admin, but enabled him to “undertake more testing, experiment with more materials, and develop the collection further.” That came through loud and clear with some innovative uses in leather, including shoes with high-shine spazzolato leather, as well as rubberized and foil-laminated leathers. Untrammeled creativity continued with splashes of neon and very cool colors, like blush pink and mint green. Then there were candy-stripe accents, basket-weave details, and contrasting orange lace details—all of which had just enough high-fashion elements to make that girlfriend jealous, but then pulled back a bit just when it was heading over the top. It was an enlightened offering that underscored Kirkwood rightful membership in the LVMH club.

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Photo: Courtesy of Nicholas Kirkwood

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