From the Operating Room to Sumba, Fashion East’s Menswear Designers Find Inspiration in Unlikely Places-------
Fashion East Men’s latest outing was inventive even by its high standards, proof that Lulu Kennedy’s talent farm keeps producing the best of breed. It started with a clinical and slightly sinister jewelry collection from Alan Crocetti (the man behind the mouthpieces at Bobby Abley’s MAN Fall 2014 show). The goods were inspired by the external fixtures that hold surgically inserted pins in a broken bone. There were a couple firsts in the jewelry world: a “palm ring” (a band that wrapped around the hand) and a silver tab placed above the nose in the same way a bandage would appear after rhinoplasty surgery (pictured, below).
Next up was textile specialist Edward Crutchley, who became obsessed with ikat prints after a recent trip to Sumba, Indonesia. Ikat is a busy pattern to begin with, but that didn’t stop the designer from layering one look with leggings, shorts, and a tunic in the print.
Marques’Almeida carried on its love affair with deconstructed, raw-edged denim, taking a cue from its own FW 2014 women’s collection. Loose, slouchy denim with raw hems said hip kids on a road trip.
A surprise last-minute guest was the California-born, British-educated Shaun Samson, who, after some visa issues, came back to London late last night. Models lounging around cots in a “tent” sported board shorts with doodle prints, graphic thunderclap sweaters, and Boy Scout scarves. Talk about camp.
The final designer, Martine Rose, a Fashion East veteran who was invited back for this outing, was brief in her presentation—just one look of her trademark baggy sweatpants combined with a long leather jacket and knit turtleneck (pictured, below). The ensemble was a teaser for a larger project she has slated for the fall with a top photographer, but for now she remains tight-lipped on the details.