Y/Project Shows Shine and Shadow for Men in Paris-------
“Y/Project has always been sophisticated and rough,” says Glenn Martens, the Belgian designer who stepped in last September after the passing of Y/Project’s visionary founder, Yohan Serfaty. For the Spring/Summer 2015 men’s collection, Martens established a new balance between these two poles by subjecting natural fabrics like linen to a battery of technical surface treatments. Bonded, waxed, plasticized, and oiled, Y/Project’s cleaned-up Perfectos and knee pants in linen and cotton worn with translucent biker racing tops shed light on the brand’s signature gritty, urban vibe.
“I liked the idea of giving these cool, summer fabrics some shine, but when you look closely at the surface you can see the cracks,” says Martens, who dedicated this collection to kids of the eighties and nineties. “Everyone I work with at Y is young, but even if we finish at 11 p.m. on Friday, we still want to go out,” he says. There’s light and shadow play in Y’s reflective parkas and trousers that seem to have been turned inside out to show off seaming construction. Martens lightened up the house leathers in airy, wrinkled finishes for shirt jackets and dipped into the Y archives for metal clips, inspired by riding clothes, to attach patch pockets to leather jackets and pants.
While colors are mostly dark, Martens injected light with naturally iridescent lime yellow-green for the biker tailoring and one spacey print: a photo of draping, recolored in a polychrome spectrum in silk satin wavy stripes and a jellyfish-like splash across slinky dark tees. The new Y has a feminine side as well. Martens slipped pieces of his women’s pre-collection into this show: clingy hourglass silk jerseys for sultry street angels and suits with elegant, deeply pleated, wide-belted raw silk three-quarter coats.