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Berlin Fashion Week Kicks Off, Sans Boss


Kilian Kerner Show - Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015The schedule for Berlin fashion week Spring/Summer 2015 may lack extravaganzas like the stadium-sized picnic and all-night party that Boss Orange hosted for Spring 2010, but a number of smaller, local designers are stepping into the breach.

Instead of occupying the historic but cramped Brandenburg Gate and Bebelplatz sites, which World Cup festivities have taken over just now, Berlin fashion week resides happily in the Erika-Hess-Eisstadion. This vast, open-air ice rink from the sixties has been converted into a breezy main tent. The local German designers, such as Lena Hoschek and Michael Sontag, as well as visitors from emerging fashion cities including a showcase of African designers, presented sensible but still compelling collections.

The evident outliner was Kilian Kerner (pictured, left), a designer who grew up with Berlin fashion week itself. This is Kerner’s tenth BFW season, and he has ripened into a designer whose garments gracefully fill the space left by labels like Boss. Kerner always cites music and club culture as his muse. In his early days, he reveled in silver PVC jeans, slinky Lurex dresses, and shimmering striped zoot suits.

Kerner’s chic Spring 2015 collection is too pretty, light, and precious to hide in a dark club. For women, he assembled floating fabrics in sorbet shades, with a subtle seventies-inspired silhouette, clusters of gold beading, and light layers of quilted silk. His men paid explicit homage to his origins by wearing shirts, briefs, and a full suit made from a print featuring a stained-glass window with Rihanna, Bowie, and Justin Bieber enshrined as saints. With Kerner’s new relaxed cuts and premium fabrics, these pieces were a solid start to a more grown-up Berlin fashion week.

Photo: Frazer Harrison / Getty Images

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