From Tutus to Star Trek Fashions, Berlin Closes With Mixed Messages-------
Following a week full of commercially friendly garments from brands like Laurèl, Schumacher, and Frida Weyer, Berlin fashion week ended with surreal theatrics by Johny Dar. These extremes—viable basics and wild provocations—exemplified the separate poles seen on Berlin’s catwalks.
The captivating creatures (pictured, above) who opened Dar’s “Dare” show were covered in graphic body paint reminiscent of Keith Haring’s manic designs. The models’ faces were covered by cascades of synthetic hair descending from dome-shaped, oversize heads. The clothes that came after were equally bizarre. There were papier-mâché prosthetic torsos, caftans covered in skulls and abstract snakes, and net dresses that would be well-suited for an alien princess from Star Trek‘s first generation.
Before Dar, Irene Luft offered an elegant compromise between wearable offerings and garments appropriate only for Berlin’s eternal club cultures. Her dresses in black or white were thin as petals and transparent, yet their genteel cuts remained ladylike (pictured, left). An elaborate white tutu, topped with a bodice of loosely knit gold thread, would have worked for Vaslav Nijinsky’s early ballets. Will she open next season in the same spirit?