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August 2 2014

styledotcom Celebrating Yves Saint Laurent, on what would have been his 78th birthday: stylem.ag/1m6aDty @YSL pic.twitter.com/wsdg2Pooy0

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Études Sings the Blues

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If you’re going to base a men’s line and each of its collections on a color, as is the MO of the French label Études, blue is a nice way to go. Think of all the gradients with subtly evocative names it affords: azure, cobalt, bleu de France, periwinkle, cyan, navy, cerulean, and the label’s signature, electric blue.

All of those shades and more appeared in Études’ Spring ’15 collection, a blend of tailored, utilitarian, and athletic silhouettes rendered in solid and color-blocked cottons and tech fabrics. Color as concept—interesting. Thankfully, however, Études creative directors Aurélien Arbet and Jérémie Egry (the two others in the collective are designer José Lamali and book publisher Nicolas Poillot) injected a few other hues into the mix: black, gray, white, and a sharp canary yellow that helped bring it all into focus.

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That the runway show was held in a garage and motorcycle showroom is significant, because central to Études’ thinking for Spring—besides blue—was a masculine motocross vibe, highlighted with forward-leaning racing signage spelling out the words Conceptualism, Dadaism, Fauvism, and New Realism. Add to that cloche hats in blue felt; an ample use of the monogram É; and various prints, like allover machinery gears (created by Swedish artist Martin Lange), and you have a very busy collection, perhaps one element too busy. Still, a very thoughtful collection with an eye to the future. Many pieces will race off shelves.

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