Since it launched in 2009, Made fashion week has increasingly been one of the highlights of the New York fashion week calendar. Its founders (pictured), Jenné Lombardo, Mazdack Rassi, and Keith Baptista, have continued to bring a slew of fresh talents (as well as more seasoned vets) into the fold, and this season is no different. They’ve just released their Spring 2015 lineup to Style.com, and they have 10 new additions—including Zana Bayne, Koonhor, Chris Gelinas’ CG, and Maison Kitsuné—to the Made programming this season.
“What really excites us is newness and visually stimulating shows or presentations,” Lombardo told Style.com. “With names like Zana Bayne, we’ve really enjoyed watching her trajectory—we’ve been fans from the sidelines. With others, like Maison Kitsuné, we have been friends with them for a long time and we’re just excited to have them joining us,” she said. They will be showing alongside returning labels like Public School, Tim Coppens, Jeremy Scott, and Sophie Theallet.
Here’s the full list of shows and dates, below:
Thursday, September 4
Lexus Design Disrupted: Gareth Pugh
Friday, September 5
Cushnie et Ochs
Saturday, September 6
Sunday, September 7
Devon Halfnight Leflufy
Monday, September 8
Olivier Saillard: “Models Never Talk”
Tuesday, September 9
Wednesday, September 10
Maria ke Fisherman
How many times have you found yourself saying, “Ugh, I just can’t find the right shirt to wear in this selfie?” Well, fret not, tech-savvy narcissists, because up-and-coming London-based designer Timur Kim has got you covered. Today, the Central Saint Martins-trained talent (who, having graduated in 2012 at the age of 22, was one of the late Louise Wilson’s star pupils) launches his selfie T-shirts, a unisex range of limited-edition tees whose prints are cleverly focused around the neck. “When you’re doing a selfie, you capture only the face and the area below the neck,” said the 25-year-old designer of Russian and Korean descent. “What makes these shirts perfect for taking selfies is that all the designs are concentrated around this area. Everything is in the right place for the photograph.”
Selfie-focused fashion—could this be the end of cerebral, well-designed clothing as we know it? Not at all, actually, because Kim’s cheeky, entirely handmade capsule is simultaneously a clever commentary on our self-absorbed, iPhone-obsessed generation and an ingenious marketing plan. “I don’t really do selfies,” Kim told me. “I like to keep to myself, and I don’t like to be photographed. But the selfie is a huge phenomenon, especially in fashion, because [fashion] is such a self-centric industry. We all want to be part of it. We all want to be exposed, often through the clothes we wear and the style we choose. So I thought why not get people to take a selfie in my work?”
Offered in three styles, the tops are priced at £100 and are available on Kim’s website. And because I know you were wondering, no. Kim’s T-shirts were not inspired by Kim Kardashian West’s recently announced book of selfies. In fact, he didn’t even know said tome was in the works. “I don’t really pay attention to Kim Kardashian. What she’s doing doesn’t in any way relate to my work, so she doesn’t really interest me.” We’re guessing she won’t be posing in Mr. Kim’s tops anytime soon.
What does interest Kim (and me, for that matter) is his forthcoming Spring ’15 collection, for which his T-shirts serve as a preview of sorts. With his event scheduled for September 15 at London’s Lyst Studios, Kim is confident that this London fashion week outing will be his best yet. A sneak peek at his mood board debuts exclusively here.
“I think this is going to be my breakthrough,” Kim said confidently. “The main theme is Back to the Future, so it kind of encompasses everything I’ve done from the [Central Saint Martins] MA to this point. I feel like I can finally integrate all that I’m capable of, and the result is what I’ve wanted to achieve for a long time. I’m getting there, and I’m liking it.” Expect color-blocking, stretch everything (including denim), silk looks, and “unexpected techniques,” as well as garments that are made entirely by hand. “Some designers don’t learn the craft, and then the craft gets lost,” said Kim of the importance of touching each garment he conceives. “It’s not just about styling and jewelry and sketching. You have to know how to work with the fabric, how to be an architect of clothing.” Like we said, good design isn’t going anywhere—in fact, it might just be getting started.
“It’s quite a long time we have been in the business,” Filip Arickx of A.F. Vandevorst tells Style.com. Sixteen years, to be exact—and at last, Arickx and his wife, An Vandevorst, have opened their very first stand-alone shop in their native Antwerp. “We think the time was right.”
While their previous guerilla store pop-up projects have always included the brand’s iconic codes, like hospital beds and uniforms (Arickx says he has been collecting Red Cross furniture since he was 12), the debut store has a more contemporary feel. “We played with the colors and materials that reference the hospital element, like shades of white, used chrome finishing, and the floor is vinyl,” Arickx tells Style.com of the new space, which they worked on with Antwerp-based scenographer Bob Verhelst (who has also teamed up with brands like Maison Martin Margiela and Cartier). “But that is not really the main concept of the design this time around.”
The 650-square-foot store, which neighbors Acne Studios and Dries Van Noten, houses the brand’s main line, plus footwear and accessories pieces. They’ve also created some custom items exclusively for the new shop. “For now, we have two pairs of boots that have diamonds on the cross [where the normal red cross would be],” says Arickx. Those retail for $7,000 a pop. Belts, bags, and other exclusives are reportedly in the works.
Will an A.F. Vandevorst shop be landing in any other big cities at some point soon? They don’t have any set plans, but “London, New York, or Paris would definitely be nice.” Until then, here’s a look inside the new shop.
A.F. Vandevorst, Lombardenvest 20, 2000 Antwerp, Belgium. For more information, visit afvandevorst.be.
A quick browse through Tommy Ton’s street-style archive from the menswear shows confirms that modern guys are now embracing vibrant colors and statement-making patterns more so than ever. Certainly, digital prints are nothing new to the womenswear market (which has become oversaturated with them in recent seasons) thanks to trailblazing trendsetters such as Mary Katrantzou. But with the exception of tastemakers like Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci and County of Milan’s Marcelo Burlon, menswear labels have largely failed to meet the increased demand for in-your-face graphics—particularly on the contemporary level.
Enter Clover Canyon, which caught the photorealistic wave more than three years ago when it launched its print-driven women’s collection. After fielding plenty of requests from guys for some of its more unisex items, the California-based brand is debuting its premiere menswear lineup today at Project trade show in Las Vegas. “So much has evolved in terms of men expressing bolder individual style. For men, having fun with fashion is now more acceptable by even the most restrained observers,” Clover Canyon designer Rozae Nichols told Style.com.
Every season, the Clover Canyon studio draws upon a unique cultural inspiration. (Recent destinations have included South America, Ireland, and Greece.) According to Nichols, the theme behind her Spring ’15 men’s range, titled “Electric Lotus,” was the “correlation between electricity and the intrinsic powers of harnessing energy by ancient practices like acupuncture, chi kung, and meditation.” This cerebral concept brought about full-on looks that merge together bamboo motifs with mechanical gears, for example, or hothouse florals with electric circuits. The aforementioned prints are featured on staple silhouettes including bomber jackets, neoprene sweatshirts, board shorts, and even sneakers. Nichols envisions Clover Canyon’s male muse as a “younger man who really enjoys the discovery of a unique garment, and is excited about wearing thoughtful, bold designs with a visual story. Our prints always have something fun and interesting to say, and so does he.” While it definitely takes a confident dude to carry off head-to-toe prints like these, Clover Canyon has already received positive feedback from current retailer partners like Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s, and Nordstrom.
Seen here, Clover Canyon shared digital renderings from its debut Spring ’15 menswear collection ($120 to $450) exclusively with Style.com. For more information, visit clovercanyon.com.
There’s been a lot of talk about art influencing fashion these days, but Anndra Neen takes it to the next level. Designed by sisters Phoebe and Annette Stephens, Anndra Neen’s pieces function as both wearable accessories and decorative art—their giant collar necklaces, weighty rings, and thick bangles are veritable sculptures. Their most recognizable piece, an alpaca silver cage clutch, was inspired by an aquarium their father built to resemble a birdcage. It was a hit with nearly every fashion editor—including Carine Roitfeld, who commissioned the sisters to produce the clutch in solid 18-karat gold for the LoveGold amfAR gala at the 2013 Cannes Film Festival. “I think the gold clutch took around 20 hours to make,” Phoebe told Style.com. “It was all handmade. It’s very different working with precious metals versus alpaca silver. The craftsmanship had to be a lot more delicate and finely done, but it was amazing seeing it come to life. Solid gold shines so beautifully.”
The sisters recently decided to auction off the piece, and after meeting with several houses, they partnered with Sotheby’s for its Important Jewels auction in New York this September. They spoke exclusively to Style.com about the sale. “It’s a unique opportunity for Sotheby’s, too, because they don’t usually have so many new designers,” Annette explained. (Sotheby’s fine-jewelry roster includes Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati, and De Grisogono.) Anndra Neen certainly doesn’t fit the traditional mold. “They’re looking for more of a fashion focus, and they want a younger audience. There are a lot of young collectors now who are really savvy—they know what they want, and they know about objects and jewelry.”
The 18k question: What will people pay for this clutch? LuxCartel confirmed the auction estimate was between $20,000 and $30,000. “Having one of our pieces auctioned off at Sotheby’s kind of puts us in the art market, which is really validating,” Annette said. “It’s super-exciting to be able to really cross both categories.”
Anndra Neen’s solid-gold cage clutch will be sold at Sotheby’s Important Jewels auction on September 23 in New York.