Rock stars embody a sense of freedom and glamour that fashion will forever be chasing after. No designer has championed the rocker look more than Hedi Slimane, who successfully revitalized Saint Laurent by mining youth-culture codes for creative inspiration. A true fanboy, Slimane regularly casts lanky musicians to walk his runway shows and also fills his front rows with a tribe of real-life musicians, including Alex Turner, Miles Kane, and The Kills’ Alison Mosshart. But SL isn’t the only brand getting with the band lately. For his Diesel Black Gold Resort collection, Andreas Melbostad studded and stenciled tough leather vests and biker jackets that read “Race to the Grave.” Haider Ackermann took his signature decadent aesthetic in an edgier direction for Spring ’15 with black vinyl pants and silk sashes worthy of Keith Richards. And Undercover’s Jun Takahashi paid tribute to New York’s proto-punk scene by featuring the cover art from Television’s Marquee Moon album in his latest menswear lineup. Off the catwalk, models of the moment are striking a similar note with electric, eclectic ensembles. During the Paris menswear shows, Grace Hartzel’s bohemian frock and silver amulets channeled a Ladies of the Canyon vibe, while Waleska Gorczevski paired a grungy Nirvana T-shirt with black shredded jeans—proof that the rock-star trend is as much about attitude as it is about the clothes.
The 2014 Farmers’ Almanac was spot-on in its forecast of a wet, hot summer—at least here in NYC, where city dwellers have been experiencing stickier-than-usual conditions and bucketloads of rain. It’s no wonder we’ve been particularly drawn to the Resort collections’ cool cutouts. Narciso Rodriguez, Joseph Altuzarra, and the Cushnie et Ochs girls were among those who showed body-con dresses featuring razor-sharp incisions. Gia Coppola took a subtler approach to ventilation at the CFDA Awards back in June, when she wore a patterned Proenza Schouler number that exposed just a sliver of abdomen. Meanwhile, Charlotte Gainsbourg turned up on the Cannes red carpet in a holey Louis Vuitton Cruise top, and Anna Dello Russo donned Anthony Vaccarello’s breezy (but not so easy) navy style during the Milan menswear shows.
Anyone who’s been through the Resort ringer or brushing up on our trend reports recognizes the season’s commercial significance. Pre-Spring is time to shine when it comes to sales, and we witnessed savvy brands amping up their accessories offerings this year—because at the end of the day, most customers would still rather invest in a timeless bag or a terrific pair of shoes than blow their budget on a fancy cocktail dress they’ll only break out occasionally. This summer, the editors here at Style.com have all but sworn off our heels in favor of still-trendy sneakers or casual flats, and so we got a kick out of the down-to-earth gladiators (much easier than the towering styles made popular two years ago) from the likes of Miu Miu, Valentino, and Sacai Luck. Similarly, the latest lineups from Alexander Wang and 3.1 Phillip Lim both featured knee-high, lace-up desert boots ideal for stomping on city sidewalks. Elsewhere, Nicolas Ghesquière earned extra credit for his Cruise extras spotted on the Louis Vuitton runway in Monaco. Highlights here included the monogrammed Petite Malle bag, which was updated with a chain-link handle. Among this season’s other fresh accessories propositions were Reed Krakoff’s new RK40 satchel, which was a bona fide hit at his recent presentation; Stella McCartney’s bejeweled wooden clutches; and Gucci’s killer go-go boots. Of course, we couldn’t resist the novelty factor of Giles’ playful stegosaurus purse and Jeremy Scott’s “This Is Not a Moschino T-Shirt” moment.
Click here for a slideshow of twenty of our favorite Resort ’15 accessories.
The lines between swim and ready-to-wear are blurrier than ever these days. This season, we’ve witnessed tastemakers replacing still-happening crop tops with functional yet stylish suits meant to be worn at the beach and off of it. Swapping out your underwear for your bikini isn’t necessarily new—particularly if you’ve ever been a few days behind on laundry—but designers are now emphasizing underpinnings as a key part of the total look. Resort found the likes of Rosetta Getty and Fendi’s Karl Lagerfeld layering triangle tops under silk shirtdresses and mesh vests, while high-waisted briefs turned up at Louis Vuitton, Mary Katrantzou, and Agnona. Sporty bandeaus, meanwhile, proved to be popular among the likes of Alexander Wang, Prabal Gurung, and Preen.
This August marks the 45th anniversary of Woodstock. Tie-dyed T-shirts have remained a mainstay for jam-band fans and festivalgoers ever since. But the Resort ’15 collections are shaking the psychedelic swirls from their hippie-dippy connotations. Designers including Michael Kors, Fausto Puglisi, and Burberry Prorsum’s Christopher Bailey gave dip-dyed looks a sophisticated rinse-and-spin—Kors’ wisteria leather bell-bottoms are already at the top of editors’ wish lists. At Bottega Veneta, Tomas Maier experimented with bleach effects on long T-shirt dresses, while Gucci’s Frida Giannini showed a cool, faded cable-knit pullover and matching stonewashed jeans. Even Alexander Wang gave the emerging trend his stamp of approval, proposing tie-dye as the downtown alternative to camouflage.
Here, a slideshow of our favorite new tie-dyed looks.