Designers’ fascination with the eighties is taking many forms, some obvious, others less so. The Krizia animal sweater may be a rare breed that’s unfamiliar to all but the most devoted collector, but it’s a look that resonated for Fall. For more than 20 years, Mariuccia Mandelli selected a different critter to feature in her collection; in 1981, it was a cat. This season, wild ones roared their way down the runways at Eley Kishimoto and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, while domesticated felines purred at Paul & Joe and Zero + Maria Cornejo. Even Miuccia Prada got into the act at Miu Miu, where the graphic pattern of a dress evoked tiger skin. Click for a slideshow, then let us know if you’ll be adopting the trend.
Is fashion finding religion? For starters, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana play priests in the upcoming musical film Nine. As for the Fall runways, the models at Todd Lynn’s show carried rosary beads and walked to chants; there were cassock coats at Giambattista Valli; and the headgear at Alexander McQueen, Marc Jacobs, and Fendi recalled medieval wimples. A photo of Grace Jones in a draped hood by Azzedine Alaïa influenced the severe geometry of Bruno Pieters’ collection. “Hers was soft and draped. I wanted to do mine in a constructed way,” the designer explains. “Nuns were not an inspiration—more the result, I think.” Do you say hallelujah or good riddance and amen to the trend? Click for a slideshow and let us know.
Designers found lots of ways to work cost-effectively this season, but none was more eye-catching than the single-sleeve look. “It’s a bit playful,” Henry Holland said of the style. “A strong shoulder on the other side balances it out.” The silhouette, which also showed up at Akris, Givenchy, and Michael Kors, among other runways, is an evolution of trendy off-the-shoulder dressing. Depending on your point of view, it either plays on the notion of reveal/conceal or makes the wearer look like she forgot an important part of her ensemble on her way out the door. What’s your take on the trend? Click for a slideshow and tell us.
Karl Lagerfeld may have swapped Chanel’s traditional pearls for jade this season, but the lustrous gem showed up on plenty of other runways. Pearls were outsized at Moschino Cheap & Chic, strung onto ribbon at 3.1 Phillip Lim, and embroidered and buried in tulle at Comme des Garçons. Hidden treasures also popped up at Givenchy, where Riccardo Tisci hung strands of fabric-encased beads from draped tops, and at Sinha-Stanic, where twinkly buttons were applied to rock-chick dresses after the style of the Cockney Pearlies. At Louis Vuitton, meanwhile, ankle-strap party shoes featured pearl-pierced hourglass-shaped heels. Click for a slideshow, then tell us if you’ve taken a shine to this trend. Tell us below.
While Karl Lagerfeld was literally having his work cut out for him at Chanel Haute Couture (by Kamo, a Japanese hairdresser who created the show’s elaborate paper headdresses), his fellow designers had a slightly different form of scissorwork in mind. The sharp, soot-colored suits at Anne Valérie Hash and Armani Privé recalled the fitted tailoring and moody elegance of the Edwardian era. That age also resurfaced in the exaggerated shoulders inching up toward the models’ chins on a number of runways. Riccardo Tisci, fashion’s dark knight, kept things light at Givenchy by swapping sheer puffs of organza for shoulder pads. Click for a slideshow, then let us know whether Couture’s Edwardiana trend strikes you as fresh or stuck in the past.