Karl Lagerfeld may have swapped Chanel’s traditional pearls for jade this season, but the lustrous gem showed up on plenty of other runways. Pearls were outsized at Moschino Cheap & Chic, strung onto ribbon at 3.1 Phillip Lim, and embroidered and buried in tulle at Comme des Garçons. Hidden treasures also popped up at Givenchy, where Riccardo Tisci hung strands of fabric-encased beads from draped tops, and at Sinha-Stanic, where twinkly buttons were applied to rock-chick dresses after the style of the Cockney Pearlies. At Louis Vuitton, meanwhile, ankle-strap party shoes featured pearl-pierced hourglass-shaped heels. Click for a slideshow, then tell us if you’ve taken a shine to this trend. Tell us below.
While Karl Lagerfeld was literally having his work cut out for him at Chanel Haute Couture (by Kamo, a Japanese hairdresser who created the show’s elaborate paper headdresses), his fellow designers had a slightly different form of scissorwork in mind. The sharp, soot-colored suits at Anne Valérie Hash and Armani Privé recalled the fitted tailoring and moody elegance of the Edwardian era. That age also resurfaced in the exaggerated shoulders inching up toward the models’ chins on a number of runways. Riccardo Tisci, fashion’s dark knight, kept things light at Givenchy by swapping sheer puffs of organza for shoulder pads. Click for a slideshow, then let us know whether Couture’s Edwardiana trend strikes you as fresh or stuck in the past.
Somewhere Nancy Cunard, the rebellious Jazz Age heiress famous for wearing armfuls of African bracelets, is smiling. “Bangles are making a comeback,” stylist Edward Enninful, who used them at Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s Spring show for Malo, told us. “The clothes were so urban, clean, and refined, we decided to pile bracelets on to give the collection a tribal edge.” Wilder still were the ornate leopard versions at Louis Vuitton, while pieced glass numbers added Arabian Nights sparkle to the Moorish lineup at 3.1 Phillip Lim. In her Christian Lacroix Couture review, Style.com’s Sarah Mower cited “chichi soubrettes, Belle Époque madames, [and] southern Mediterranean exotics” as inspirations, but the show’s colorful bangles are giving us Carmen Miranda. One thing’s for certain: These days accessorizing is all in the wrist. Click for a slideshow, then let us know if you’ll be adopting this trend.
Hoopskirts paraded down the runways and they didn’t just come in record numbers, they arrived in record proportions. At Yohji Yamamoto, the bride’s sweeping hem even inched its way over the catwalk’s edge and into the front row. While hoops are hardly a surprise at Betsey Johnson—”My most consistent, true-blue look has been the puffy skirt shape,” the designer said—they were less expected at Bottega Veneta, where Tomas Maier added rustic, romantic elements to his usual streamlined mix. More Versailles than home on the prairie were the perky bell-shaped minis at Alexander McQueen and Paul Smith. Click here to wrap your head around the trend, then tell us if Laura Dern was thinking outside the box or going around in circles when she took the look to the red carpet at last Sunday’s Golden Globes.
If you weren’t among the devoted who queued up for the polka-dot-heavy Comme des Garçons capsule collection for H&M, you can still get the look: A flurry of spots are headed to stores come spring (click for slideshow). “People are investing in key pieces now,” says Adam Lippes, who featured the print in his latest ADAM collection. “Polka dots are classic, but they’ve been given a fresh twist.” There were cheery retro circles of all sizes at Michael Kors, Marni’s Consuelo Castiglioni turned the pattern into lace skirts, and Giles Deacon offered smudged spots on shift dresses. It’s time to get happy, designers seem to be saying. We’re inclined to agree—here’s to optimism in ’09. Click here to get your dot on.