Hedi Slimane sent out dresses that called to mind the “kinderwhore” fashion pioneered by Courtney Love and company during grunge’s nascent years. But the Saint Laurent designer wasn’t the only one who embraced baby dolls for Fall. At Valentino, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli updated the youthful silhouette with couture-level craftsmanship, while Emilio Pucci’s Peter Dundas and Undercover’s Jun Takahashi showed wispy lingerie-inspired takes on the trend. For proof that the abbreviated shape has legs off the catwalk, look no further than Alexa Chung, who can rock a mini like no other—those pins! Sky Ferreira, meanwhile, could’ve passed for Love’s sophisticated little sis in the sparkly Saint Laurent number she wore to the Met Gala.
Aside from maybe a tiara, nothing heightens the glamour of a full-on evening look quite like a pair of gloves. Eye-catching gauntlets turned up on the Lanvin, Gucci, and Oscar de la Renta Fall runways. And at last week’s high-wattage Met Gala, divas from Madonna to Beyoncé to Paloma Faith covered up their digits with statement-making pairs of varying lengths. Kim Kardashian’s custom Givenchy number was the talk of the town, but what really piqued our interest was the gown’s built-in gloves, which prompted speculation that Kim was concealing an engagement ring (you know Kanye would go all out with a rock for his baby mama).
Setting yourself apart—that’s what fashion is about, right? Still, there are few things more striking than seeing a group of trendsetters dressed alike—especially if the matching is unintentional, almost telepathic. We noticed several of these serendipitous moments during the Fall shows, including identical Opening Ceremony varsity jackets, his and hers Nikes, and a pair of friends clad in similar printed looks from Mary Katrantzou’s new collection. Le 21ème photographer Adam Katz Sinding, who frequently captures these kinds of instances, told Style.com, “I think, instinctively, we are drawn to symmetry and proportion. Seeing two identical buildings on the street or twins is interesting because it catches our eye and makes us look twice. I like the rare occasions when things seem to fall into line.”
Here, our favorite two-for-one moments.
Who can resist a novelty sweater? Over the past few seasons, pullovers emblazoned with Givenchy’s snarling rottweilers and Kenzo’s tigers have become status symbols for the street-style set. Designers’ message for Fall: There is plenty more where those came from. Jeremy Scott and Raf Simons sent tongue-in-cheek intarsia knits down their runways, and Christopher Kane’s turtleneck depicting a healthy human brain electrified with ideas is destined to become a collector’s item. Others took a more classic approach. Sweaters inlaid with feminine floral motifs turned up at Billy Reid, Sister by Sibling, and Antonio Marras, while Victoria Beckham, Derek Lam, and Louise Goldin (left) stuck with graphic, geometric patterns.
Here, the best of Fall’s intarsia knits.
It’s no secret that fashion is having an affair to remember with punk right now, so it’s fitting that vinyl and PVC also made subversive waves on the Fall runways. Donatella Versace ratcheted up the fetish factor with her “Vunk”-themed lineup full of the shiny stuff (left), while Joseph Altuzarra and Jonathan Saunders gave corseted looks a kinky kick by whipping them up in technical poly- and patent leather, respectively. (Speaking of kick, we couldn’t get enough of Karl Lagerfeld’s glossy thigh-high boots.) But slick synthetics weren’t exclusively used in a sexy context this season. The rain-resistant material was a practical yet eye-catching choice for the classic trenches and mackintosh coats that turned up at Burberry Prorsum, Maison Martin Margiela, and Salvatore Ferragamo, to name a few.
Here, our roundup of the best in vinyl, on and off the runway >>