Uberstylist Camille Bidault-Waddington’s current favorite coat would appear to be a quintessentially Parisian sailor jacket, which she wore not once but twice in the past few days (at Chanel, pictured, where she paired it with a striped shirt and jeans, and yesterday afternoon at Louis Vuitton, where she used it to top a black turtleneck sweater and trousers). The five-button wool design is from A.P.C., which, incidentally, Bidault-Waddington styles. Our prediction? This one’s a trend in the making.
Who would you rather turn on—your boyfriend or a fashion editor? It’s a question all followers of fashion have had to face, particularly during show season. After all, no woman buys a tulip-shaped skirt to attract the boys. You buy it because it’s this season’s Balenciaga shape, you don’t have anything else in your wardrobe like it, it will make you stand out, and it’s faaaaaabulous. Oh, and because you know other people who know Ghesquière like you know Ghesquière will see what you’re wearing and give you an invisible high five.
Fashion is a very tribal thing. Leaving aside the are-you-a-goth-or-are-you-a-tartan-enthusiast debate that is so very, very crucial this season, just showing that you care about fashion marks you out as part of a certain group. Maybe you do this by carrying an It bag, maybe you do this by wearing ankle boots with a floral minidress (currently the most popular look among the fashion press attending the shows, which means it will be all over town in three months). Or maybe you do this by wearing something really ridiculous. Fashion is almost never about attracting potential partners, which is why people who mock it for being anti-feminist really don’t get it. It’s a purely self-involved pursuit, with occasional interest in how other people (OK, women) in your fashion tribe, who tend to be of your gender or perhaps male and only sexually interested in others of their gender, see you. For heterosexual men, it is not. In this sense, one can argue that it’s either the greatest feminist triumph there is, like a kind of woman-dominated kingdom where straight men are reduced to little more than irrelevancies. Or you could argue that it is vanity that has been notched up to such a level that it has lost all contact with the real world. Whatever, that Balenciaga skirt did rock.
If the Paris shows are anything to go by, it looks like we’ll be walking around channeling Romanian housewives by next summer. Yes, the head scarf is back. Last season, it was tied under the chin à la Thelma and Louise. This season, it’s swept backward behind the head and tied low, preferably under a chignon. Need style notes? Rick Owens had a more abstract interpretation of the style (in the form of a nun’s habit), Vivienne Westwood opted for a Rastafarian version, and Cacharel went for a simple Amish style in Liberty prints.
What: Antonio Berardi‘s heel-less boots
Why: Gravity defiance and over-the-knee PVC make it hard to look away.
Who: Victoria Beckham, fashion’s resident wallflower and paparazzi shunner. We joke, we joke.
The verdict: Are Posh’s boots avant-garde, or so painfully weird-looking that you’d like to offer the poor girl a chair?
You decide. Comments welcome.
The idea that there is a time and place for everything is, to the fashion mind, a terribly limiting thought. In Milan this week, “time” and “place” seemed to translate as “all the time” and “any place.” We’re referring to the wearing of Le Smoking, which was once upon a time an evening look. We spotted head-to-toe looks, but more people went for a more subtle interpretation, wearing piped trousers or coats. And at today’s Dolce & Gabbana show, piped pajamas—a sort of Le Smoking-meets-Julian Schnabel look—were all the rage.