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April 24 2014

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The New Power Palette

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Pastels from Christopher Kane, Gucci, and Marc JacobsDuring New York fashion week, pale pink was the street-style color of choice, at least as far as coats were concerned. Ever since Carven sent pastel cocoon coats down the runway last September, we’ve coveted a rosy topper—this editor even surrendered to one. And while by week’s end the pale-hued jackets felt all but ubiquitous, the last day of the New York collections began to validate my purchase.

Both Ralph Lauren and Marc Jacobs cast cloudy variations of neutrals, muddled blues, frothy greens, and lilacs down the runway. We saw comparable wares (plush pink coat included) from Francisco Costa earlier at Calvin Klein Pre-Fall. Marc Jacobs’ girls, with their pristine beauty looks, were visions of almost unattainable perfection—almost like femme fatales from the future. In London Christopher Kane sang a similar tune: His models seemed prepared to conquer all elements—rosé-colored dresses finished with swirled sleeves made a fembot-esque statement. But we had to wonder, would the Italian designers follow suit? Yesterday, Frida Giannini’s pastel-powered Gucci girls took charge in sixties-infused monochromatic shirt-and-suit combos in sage green, baby blue, and sandy pink. While we can appreciate Madonna in a double-breasted Ralph Lauren tuxedo, this color theory is proof that we don’t need to borrow from the boys or opt for a classic black-and-white combo to state our claim as H.B.I.C.

Photo: IndigitalImages.com

Three’s a Trend: Dries Van Noten Keeps the Style Set in Stitches

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Dries van Noten

When we first fell in love with the intricately embroidered coats from the Dries Van Noten Fall ’13 collection, we had no idea just how essential they would become. New York basically felt like one giant snow globe throughout NYFW, and such statement coats became the unrivaled uniform of the style set. Miroslava Duma and Taylor Tomasi Hill both stepped out in DVN’s opening look—a slightly oversized, midnight blue coat with shocking pink embroidery—and Tommy Ton spotted another showgoer in the camel and sunshine yellow version in London. We’ll probably regret saying this, but we’re secretly hoping for another cold front next year—all the more reason to expand our coat collection.

Photos: Photos: Tommy Ton; Courtesy of Collage Vintage

Three’s a Trend: Think Pink—Or Better Yet, Just Wear It

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Wear PinkWhile our fall color palette is typically comprised of neutral hues, things changed in a big way this season. Alongside classic shades of gray, camel, black, and ivory were electrifying jolts of fuchsia—just in time for Valentine’s Day. At Altuzarra, the seductive color peeked out from beneath a deep olive coat, providing a chic solution to the latest snowstorm. What better way to beat the winter blues than with a mood-elevating pop of pink? Giovanna Battaglia had the same idea when she bypassed oversize parkas and cocoon coats and wrapped herself in a hot pink fur scarf instead. And Thakoon Panichgul deftly showed a head-to-toe fuchsia look in the form of a vibrant floral dress and knit wrap, which will transition nicely into spring. The color’s year-round wearability means you won’t feel so guilty wishing for a few pieces next Valentine’s Day—those heart-shaped candies won’t stand a chance.

Photo: IndigitalImages.com; Tommy Ton 

Brace Yourself for Spring

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Arm gear from Alexander McQueen, Maison Martin Margiela, and Chanel

We first saw signs up geared-up girls during the Spring ready-to-wear collections, when Alexander McQueen‘s Sarah Burton presented warrior women donning arm-length gilded cuffs. This embrace of aggressive arm accessories re-emerged at the Spring Couture shows, where Chanel and Maison Martin Margiela proposed accouterments that exuded a “don’t mess with me” attitude. Karl’s girls complemented their trainers (and fanny packs) with elbow- (and knee-) pads at Chanel. And Margiela toughened up a pair of striped trousers with beaded temporary-tattoo sleeves. It may be abrasive (and potentially uncomfortable), but we’re welcoming this rebellious Couture trend with open arms.

Fur All Seasons

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Bouchra Jarrar, Liza Minnelli, Atelier Versace

Maybe designers just have Polar Vortex on the brain, but judging by the couture catwalks, it seems that furs are here to stay even for warm weather. For all intents and purposes, the counterintuitive trend was started (as so many are) by Miuccia Prada when she showed colorful fur coats and stoles on both Miu Miu‘s and Prada‘s Spring ’13 catwalks. The furry fad continued for Spring ’14, when Michael Kors, Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, Tom Ford, and, once again, Mrs. Prada swathed their models in fuzzy tops, scarves, and jackets.

Fast-forward to Spring ’14 Couture, where Donatella Versace proposed a cotton-candy-hued fur stole, as well as a lush violet coat, on her catwalk. Bouchra Jarrar also jumped on board, presenting models wrapped in haircalf and fur vests. “Oh, anything goes on the couture runways,” they’ll say. But hear this: Scorching furs are becoming prime red-carpet fodder, too. Just ask Liza Minnelli. Despite the fact that it was 84 degrees in L.A. on Saturday, the enduring style icon arrived at the SAG Awards in a snuggly fur-trimmed cape. Anyway, we thought we’d start spreading the news…

Photos: Indigitalimages/Patrick McMullan Company