On Saturday, after a two-day closure, Dover Street Market New York, Rei Kawakubo’s seven-floor multibrand fashion wonderland open since last December, celebrated its inaugural “new beginning,” with just-arrived Fall ’14 merchandise and fresh shop-in-shops. Melitta Baumeister, whose career was catapulted when Rihanna wore her oversize black biker jacket in Paris back in March, and Hood by Air’s Shayne Oliver are two new additions to the store’s fourth-floor DSM Showroom, which is devoted to emerging designers. They join a roster that includes Craig Green, Jacquemus, Phoebe English, KTZ, 1205, Gosha Rubchinskiy, Proper Gang, Shaun Samson, and Sibling. We checked in with the new recruits and a quartet of the floor’s returning talents to talk about Kawakubo’s lasting influence, their new installations, and the “beautiful chaos” that is DSM.
“The Comme des Garçons campaign collaboration with Cindy Sherman in 1994 stopped me in my tracks. I remember being completely blown away,” Baumeister recalls. “So I’m very happy to be with a group of creators [now] that have a mutual understanding on fashion, to be part of a showroom that believes in the importance of creating new experiences of how fashion can be consumed, in a world of beautiful chaos. To be in an environment where the brand is understood will no doubt give [me] the confidence to go further with bigger dreams.”
HOOD BY AIR (SHAYNE OLIVER)
“Going to the Comme des Garçons flagship for the first time here in New York changed my life, and molded my thought process on creating a fashion brand that is meant for you, and only you,” Oliver remembers. “The shopping experience at Dover Street Market is [likewise] unique and special. I think it really works well with the HBA concept and vibe. We want to make people feel immersed in our world, in the whole experience of the brand. [Our shop-in-shop] is a conversation with our customers outside of the traditional realm of fashion.”
“All the Dover Street Market stores have a totally stand-alone and unique way of working. The amazing and forever-changing interiors make for a dynamic and exciting space and experience,” Green says. “The main idea behind our new Fall ’14 space was to put the highly detailed, hand-painted pieces against the raw quality of untreated wooden structures. We used large hand-painted fabric rugs as hangings to demonstrate what the garments themselves have been cut from.
“DSMNY is different to other stores as it’s not really just a store, it’s a destination and an environmental experience, which heightens, celebrates, and elevates the incredible stock they hold,” English says. “In many ways it’s also a mecca for young creatives justifying and contextualizing the work they’re making; [that's what] the London store was for me when I was studying at Central Saint Martins. We wanted this space to [feel] unexpected, sort of like a surprise or a bit of drama injected into a retail environment. The raw naturalism of the collapsed cliff face against the clothes hanging on the suspended rails—something beautiful and refined in a broken space. I [also] wanted it to represent the dialogue of material, which informs each collection. I worked with art director Philip Cooper. It was about balancing the ethos of how I work creatively with the reality of shopping.”
“The opportunity to completely change the space seasonally allows us to truly represent the season’s ideas and concepts,” Roach says. “Our Fall ’14 space remains minimal with the introduction of new square metal fixtures. We’ve introduced stand-alone, industrial two-arm rails to highlight the collection’s fabrication and construction, which remain fundamental. I would like people to touch and try on the clothes.”
SIBLING (SID BRYAN, JOE BATES, COZETTE MCCREERY)
“DSMNY feels like being in an interactive art space but without any of the pretense,” the Sibling trio says. “It’s been fantastic to see how artists and creatives interpret the Sibling vision each time. We loved collaborating with Uncommon Projects [on the leopard shelving and screen unit], Richard Woods [using the catwalk recolored version of his iconic wood print as wallpaper], and now with artist James Davison. We saw James’ work recently via the journalist Charlie Porter. He’d uploaded a video of James’ window display with moving parts and amazing color. It also felt like he’d had fun doing it. All of which is very much what Sibling is about, so we didn’t think twice about working with him and sent him catwalk pictures and a very relaxed brief. Relaxed because we always like collaborative works to come more from the artist.”
It would be hard to find someone better than Dree Hemingway to represent the essence of iconic Americana. So it’s easy to see, then, why Cole Haan tapped the model, actress, and great-granddaughter of Ernest Hemingway to front its latest campaign, act as global ambassador, and collaborate with the house’s creative director, Walker MacWilliam, on a Fall ’15 premium collection dubbed Cole Haan for Dree Hemingway.
Set in Hemingway’s hometown of Sun Valley, Idaho, the Glen Luchford-lensed ads and corresponding film (the latter of which debuts exclusively here) projects the vintage American vibe that Hemingway embraces in her own wardrobe. “I wanted the images to be more about the essence of what Cole Haan is,” offered Hemingway during a chat at New York’s Soho House this weekend. “I think we’re moved to dress a certain way because of the mood of the images we see, not just because of the pieces or products that are featured, and I wanted to give people that inspiration,” she continued. “It’s a little 1950s-meets-modern, and there’s a hint of Katharine Hepburn’s masculine take on femininity. That’s my style.” Hemingway is also a pretty fearless horsewoman, and made the impromptu decision to jump onto a chestnut steed sans saddle during the shoot. “I was just walking around with the horses and I thought, I’ll just bareback it. Why not?“
When asked about her forthcoming collection for the brand, Hemingway said that she hopes to create timeless wares that are in line with Cole Haan’s heritage. “I want to make something that people can throw on every day and that they’ll wear and keep for life. I don’t want to do trendy pieces. I want to design something that you’re going to want to pass down.”
At the end of the short, the model is pictured standing in the middle of a country road, walking off into the distance with a Cole Haan bag in hand. Just where is she heading? “Who knows?” Hemingway laughed. “Maybe the McDonald’s down the road!” Jokes aside, after chatting with Hemingway about her work with the brand, it’s clear that she and Cole Haan are going places.
After four years heading up womenswear at Hermès, Christophe Lemaire is leaving the French heritage house to focus on his eponymous label. Spring ’15, which will walk down the runway in Paris this October, will be his final collection for the brand. “Working for Hermès has been a great pleasure, a profoundly enriching experience on both a human and professional level. I am proud of what we have built together. My own label is growing in an important way, and I now really want and need to dedicate myself to it fully,” offered Lemaire, who replaced Jean Paul Gaultier when he took the reins in 2010. “I am very grateful to Christophe for the passion with which he has addressed and enriched the expression of our house in women’s ready-to-wear. Under his artistic direction, the métier has renewed its aesthetic and produced very satisfactory financial results,” said Hermès CEO Axel Dumas in a statement.
Now, of course, the guessing games will begin as to Lemaire’s successor. Hermès might argue that its brand is less dependent than most on having a “star” designer, and in recent months the house has been increasingly keen to raise the profile of Bali Barret, who, as artistic director of the women’s “universe,” oversees a number of the métiers, including the womenswear. Still, it’s intriguing to think what would happen if certain big-name designers took the helm or if Hermès was to go the route that Loewe recently took of hiring an up-and-coming talent like Jonathan Anderson. On the other hand, there were always those in the industry who felt it was Helmut Lang’s ultimate destiny to alight at the French luxury firm. That seems unlikely, but stay tuned.
Have you been keeping up with our Look of the Day polls? It’s our favorite way to share our latest obsessions, from fresh runway styles to looks we spotted on the street. It’s hard to play favorites, so we turn it over to you. The trends we were coveting this week? For starters, Monday had us feeling extra nostalgic for the nineties—Calvin Klein underwear is back. Since sporty activewear is still the cool-girl uniform of choice, it’s no wonder those thick elastic bands are popping up everywhere. Italian blogger and front-row regular Chiara Ferragni wore her classic sports bra under a sheer dress, an unlikely pairing that won your vote. On Wednesday, we dedicated our Look of the Day to Thor comic books. Marvel just announced the main character will now be represented as a woman, so we rounded up five of our favorite superhero-inspired runway moments of late. At Stella McCartney’s Resort 2015 presentation, models sported superhero-mask motifs on leather bags, jumpsuits, dresses, and even their nail polish. The cute, unexpected pattern was No. 1 in your book. What else was on Style.com editors’ minds this week? Models off-duty, Gisele Bündchen’s birthday, and summertime gingham. Click here to see all the winners, plus a few runners-up, for a full weekend of style inspiration.
When it comes to fashion, the red carpet can often be filled with the same old, same old. But now and again, some bold celebrities shake things up with experimental, next-level looks. Here’s what’s feeling fresh this week.
We’re halfway through steamy July, and this week, A-listers were looking for ways to stay cool on the red carpet. Luckily, the Resort ’15 collections (which won’t hit stores until November but have been popping up on celebs since their Spring debut) offer some crafty cutouts. We noticed a few stars beating the heat with dresses boasting built-in air-conditioning, if you will. Kate Hudson and Allison Williams tried the trend at a screening of Wish I Was Here on Monday in New York. Hudson was statuesque in a black Michael Kors Resort ’15 column with a sequin bustier, and Williams chose a ladylike Altuzarra Resort ’15 sheath. On Wednesday, Nicola Peltz stepped out in an ebony ensemble with a keyhole cutout from Balmain’s Fall ’14 runway. She paired a gold-embellished crop top with a banded leather skirt for the Rio de Janeiro premiere of Transformers: Age of Extinction.
Elsewhere, two of our favorite redheads got on board with one of Spring’s hottest hair trends, turning up on the red carpet with freshly chopped bangs. Jessica Chastain’s fiery fringe perfectly complemented her navy lamé Mary Katrantzou Fall ’14 gown, and Emma Stone sported hers with a flowy purple Dolce & Gabbana Fall ’14 look.
Last, but certainly not least, RiRi, ever the daredevil, surprised fans by turning up in an Alexander Wang LBD and a gold Givenchy-esque septum ring at an event in Rio de Janeiro after Sunday’s final World Cup match. We have to hand it to her, just when we think we’ve (quite literally) seen it all, she manages to surprise once again. Here, a roundup of this week’s red-carpet highlights.