Hyundai may be best known as a South Korean car manufacturer, but it also dabbles in fashion through a division called Handsome. During the Paris collections, Handsome jumped into the City of Light’s shopping scene by opening a Marais outpost of Tom Greyhound, its multibrand concept store. (Check out the Seoul outpost here.)
Tom Greyhound. The name sounds like a cartoon character, and the store’s not-so-vaguely Batman-esque design reinforces that impression. One spin through the racks, however, and everything snaps into focus. A savvy mix of emerging and international talent—including Rag & Bone, Peter Pilotto, 3.1 Phillip Lim, J.W. Anderson, Christopher Kane, Thakoon, Opening Ceremony, and A.F. Vandevorst, among others—comes arranged by theme, not by brand, and the cozy, loft-style layout is sure to please men and women trying to track down labels that, until now, have been hard to find in Paris.
Tom Greyhound is located at 19 Rue de Saintonge, Paris, 75003.
Today, with the opening of the 2014 Whitney Biennial, which runs through May 25, an era will end. The show marks the last staging of one of the art world’s most famously forward-looking events in the Marcel Breuer monolith at Madison Avenue and 75th Street before the museum decamps to its new Meatpacking District digs in the spring of 2015. This year’s BCBGMAXAZRIAGROUP-sponsored show boasts works by 103 artists—both emerging, like duo Zackary Drucker and Rhys Ernst (below), and established, like Sterling Ruby and Gary Indiana (above)—and comprises a dizzying array of mediums and vernaculars. Three curators (Stuart Comer, Anthony Elms, and Michelle Grabner) brought in from outside the organization were each tasked with filling one floor of the museum. Style.com sat down with director Adam Weinberg to talk moving, the future, and why three heads are better than one.
On the eve of the last Biennial in the current space, what is the mood? Excitement? Nostalgia?
It’s forward-looking. I think the great thing about the Whitney is while we have a great history, it’s always about looking forward, and it’s an understanding that you always have to embrace where you are now. To keep your eyes on the horizon but not lose track of where you’ve come from. It doesn’t feel nostalgic to me—it feels right.
Did the upcoming relocation lead you to take a different approach to curating this year’s show?
It did. We brought in three outside curators, and each curator was given a floor of the museum. So it’s basically three exhibitions in one that complement one another and connect to one another but are distinct shows.
Was there any interaction between the curators to ensure a somewhat unified final product?
They met with each other; they got to know each other; they talked about artists together. There were some artists whom they all three agreed they were interested in having, and then they would decide who would best belong where. But otherwise, they did it independently.
How much does the space influence the show’s curation?
Quite a bit because it becomes the frame for the show. If you took the same group of artists and installed it in the new space downtown, it would be a different show. It doesn’t mean it’s not similar, but it would feel different. The concept of physical space changes how you experience it.
What is the new downtown location going to afford you for the next Biennial?
A lot of outdoor space. We have 14,000 square feet of it at the new building. And then we have dedicated performing arts space, which could be used for performance or installation or video. It’ll feel very different.
How do you think that the Whitney is going to fit into the largely gallery-driven downtown art dynamic?
I think it will offer a good contrast because the galleries are not primarily devoted to providing a context of work, and they’re not primarily devoted to scholarship. They pick their artists they believe in and they support them, but their primary role in the end is to support their artists and sell their work. We’re not selling the work. Not directly, anyway.
Does public reaction to past Biennials play into your approach to curating?
Never. No. You can’t curate through marketing. We care about the audience, but you have to start with the art, start with the artist. Our job is to get a sense of what’s really happening. And I truly believe that the real audience is people who want to know what’s going on. The audience is determined by the content and character and quality of the work and not by going out and asking people what they want. I mean, there are a lot of museums that now go out and they have all these voting things. That’s fine; that’s their approach. But my approach is what is our mission, what is our history, what is our connection, what drives us? And that is being active, and the visions of artists working in a particular moment. And it brings people out.
The U.K.-based knitwear specialist Barrie has been quietly producing sumptuous cashmere for fashion’s top houses since 1905. But only since its acquisition by Chanel’s métiers d’art arm two years ago (remember that runway romp in a Scottish castle? Barrie had a little something to do with that) has the manufacturer begun a gentle transition into a stand-alone niche brand.
This week in Paris, we were offered an early glimpse of what’s to come via a Karl Lagerfeld-lensed lookbook featuring Lily Collins. Odile Massuger, who oversees knits for Chanel, proposes five themes and twenty silhouettes for winter. Key pieces include a bleu-blanc-rouge “romantic” camouflage cardigan, a soft pink delft theme, and bucolic landscapes. Scarves and fingerless mittens round out the offer. Those gloves and more will be available at Colette come June.
At the beginning of each season, I promise myself I’ll start fresh and only buy pieces that have longevity—classic items that will last in my wardrobe. But by the time the collections start arriving in stores, I give up my dream and begin what I call an “emotional, well-thought-out purchase.” Do I love it? Will I wear it a whole lot? If I answer these two simple questions with a sincere yes, I’ll most likely make the purchase and get tons of use out of it. It might not be the most practical piece I own, but it will be the one I’ll have the most satisfaction of wearing. This is how I feel about this über-sexy tie-dye denim skirt from Anthony Vaccarello. Is it office appropriate? Not really. But it will be the go-to garment for my nights out. Now I just need to get some parties on the books.
Anthony Vaccarello skirt, $1,546, Buy it now