Pitti Immagine announced today that Z Zegna will be this year’s Guest Designer, an honor that comes with a special presentation for the collection during the fair, opening June 16. Designer Paul Surridge’s effort to modernize the Zegna brand seems to be paying off, as he joins past Guest Designers including Kenzo, Carven, and Damir Doma. That puts Surridge in position to carry the torch for cool, forward-looking menswear at this year’s show. Gaetano Marzotto, president of Pitti Immagine, had this to say: “This young and innovative collection reinterprets formalwear by combining it with sporty materials and themes inspired by city lifestyles, and therefore, is very much in tune with the entire cutting-edge area of our fair.”
Additionally, this year marks the sixtieth anniversary of Centro di Firenze per la Moda Italiana, and to celebrate, Pitti will host a series of events throughout Florence with famed Florentine designers Salvatore Ferragamo, Gucci, Emilio Pucci, Roberto Cavalli, and Ermanno Scervino.
Today, the British Fashion Council announced the shortlist for the annual BFC/GQ Menswear Designer Fund: Christopher Raeburn, Christopher Shannon, E. Tautz, Lou Dalton, and Richard Nicoll (left). The Fund will provide one of the designers with a bespoke mentoring support program over one year, a £150,000 grant to take their business to the next level, and £50,000 in kind services. The BFC looks for labels that have been trading for at least three years and retail in the U.K. as well as internationally. The winner of the Fund will be announced before the next London Collections: Men shows, which are scheduled for June 15 through 17.
“The shortlisted designers are testament to the extraordinary array of talent in the menswear industry in Britain right now,” said Dylan Jones, editor in chief of British GQ and chair of LC:M. “The current generation of British menswear designers might be the best ever, as they not only have creativity in abundance, but also a keen business sense.”
There’s much to be said for the luxury of the discreet, something Moynat has in spades. Sans screaming logos, and even sans advertisements, the Parisian luggage label has made its name on the weight of an impressive heritage. Now, after more than a century and a half, the brand will make its first foray into the stateside market, with a temporary ground-floor boutique in New York’s Dover Street Market. The space opens tomorrow.
Since its inception in 1849, Moynat has enjoyed a storied history as a malletier alongside counterparts Goyard and Vuitton, outfitting Europe’s upper echelons with bespoke trunks. Long before Mulberry’s Alexa, Marc’s Stam, or even the Birkin, there was Moynat’s Réjane, a handbag en homage to celebrated Belle Epoque actress Gabrielle Réjane. But by the latter half of the 20th century, the tide had turned. The grande dame Parisian boutique shuttered in the mid-seventies and Moynat languished more or less in obscurity until being acquired by LVMH in 2010. Since then, CEO Guillaume Davin and artistic director Ramesh Nair have been tasked with reacquainting the world with the house’s former glory. First up was a 2,150-square-foot flagship at 348 Rue Saint-Honoré, which bowed in 2011. Nair has paid particular attention to a sense of joie de vivre, whipping up a sumptuous valise specifically to house the macarons of Pierre Hermé and an opulent, bicycle-mounted picnic case for those who would take their lunch alongside the Seine. A first international boutique opened its doors in London just a month ago, and tomorrow, Midtown East.
Le Moynat Trunk Show (a tribute to the brand’s historic “caravan” approach to presenting their wares abroad) has made stops previously at the Galeries Lafayette in Paris and Isetan Shinjuku in Tokyo. Along with a bevy of other goods, the Dover Street installment will feature two one-off, hand-painted Quattro bags inspired by New York. “We wanted to blend into [the space] and at the same time tell a story, because for us the most important element in debuting in New York is to share a bit of our history and show our values,” Davin says. Happily, Comme des Garçons CEO Adrian Joffe and his team have endeavored to make that as liberating an experience as possible. “We give them a space and a few health and safety rules, and then leave them complete freedom to do what they want. We urge them to be creative and to be freer than they would be normally. We encourage them to ignore corporate constraints where possible.”
While the pairing of famously cutting-edge DSM and a historic brand unfazed by trend or the passage of time may seem incongruous at first glance, Joffe is quick to dismiss any naysaying. “The juxtaposition of heritage and strong fashion is a very important part of Dover Street Market, just as is the clashing of luxury and streetwear, the iconic and the iconoclastic, the simple and the more complicated—all go toward the aim of an exciting shopping experience through the realization of beautiful chaos. Creative, visionary people do not need borders and boundaries and categorization.”
Le Moynat Trunk Show will be open at Dover Street Market New York, located at 160 Lexington Avenue, from April 24 to June 22.
LN-CC is more than an impossibly cool Dalston concept store offering everything from Lanvin and Rick Owens to vintage books and records—it’s a creative family. Most of the people who have worked with the shop since it opened in 2010 are still on board—a fact that’s clearly visible in the boutique’s Spring ’14 campaign, which debuts exclusively here. Lensed by Rory van Millingen in Italy’s Carrara marble quarries, the shoot stars Gigi Jeon, who poses in LN-CC’s Spring merch. “It’s kind of the LN-CC philosophy,” explained John Skelton, the store’s founder and creative director. “Some of the buyers and stylists have been working with us since they were teenagers. Rory was just starting out when he first shot for us, and now he’s becoming a bit of a name in London. And Gigi is our house model. We found her working at a Marc Jacobs store and thought she looked amazing. But she’s so busy now, she even walked in Louis Vuitton!” he said proudly. There’s also a new member joining the LN-CC clan this season: model Max E. “This is literally his first job,” said Skelton. “He’s from Düsseldorf, and he looks unbelievable. I really think he’s going to be the next big face.”
When asked why he chose to shoot at the quarry, Skelton told us that he loved the sci-fi, futuristic effect the backdrop offered. However, getting there was no easy task. “I don’t know how high up we were, but it was above the clouds. It was quite difficult getting all the product and makeup up there. But it was worth it.” We’d have to agree. Featuring wares from Paco Rabanne, Rick Owens, Yang Li, Acne Studios, Lanvin, and more, the shoot perfectly embodies the mix-and-match LN-CC look.
LN-CC’s Spring buys are available now on its website, as the store is currently closed for renovations—the first step in a change-in-gears for LN-CC. After having fallen on hard times this past winter, the store has recently signed a deal with Italian company The Level Group, with the aim of amping up efficiency and profits. “It’s a good marriage. They’ve come in to increase the productivity of the business side, and we get to keep going with the creative side.” As for the London-based outpost’s renovations, we’ve been told that there’s quite a lot in the pipeline for the updated space, which will open in September. “It’s been a major development for us. It’s all up from here.”
World travelers Sarah Murphy and Stefaan duPont of Miles & Miles got their hands on some fine leather bags from Lotuff and took them to Marfa, Texas, to shoot the brand’s spring lookbook and video. “When we started brainstorming places to shoot, we really wanted our destination to be somewhere that would communicate the most impressive feature of Lotuff Leather’s products—the craft,” says DuPont. “Marfa’s harsh desert landscape and the realities of living out of a truck and adventuring every day prove that these bags aren’t precious. They’re built to last a lifetime.” The video, seen exclusively here, is loaded with sunbaked desert vibes, complemented perfectly by the dusty grit of a spaghetti Western and some good old-fashioned rugged Americana. The collection, all made in the USA, features styles for both men and women, including a couple that are available now exclusively at Barneys New York, just in time for adventure season.