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Style File Blog

february 12, 2012

Designer update

Norisol Ferrari Takes Off  

03:02 PM
"I'm trying to make the process of getting dressed a little simpler," New York-based designer...

Designer update

Ready To Soar

12:02 PM

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Designer update

Balenciaga Brights

February 8, 2012

Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquière found himself inspired by the late-seventies and early-eighties France for his latest pre-fall collection. He updated the looks with animal-print patchwork and silk and added sharp tailoring to the blazers and trenches. Here, in this new short film by Steven Meisel, styled by Marie-Amélie Sauvé and art directed by House and Holme, catch the looks in action. The video can also be viewed on Balenciaga.com.

Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga

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Shopping alert

Dagny + Barstow On The Bowery

February 8, 2012

Once home to Lenny Kravitz’s rock star lounge Kos, 264 Bowery has a new tenant. Tomorrow, Dagny + Barstow, the downtown shop formerly nestled in a pop-up on Gansevoort Street, will officially open for business. Owned by college pals Meredith Blank and Emily Titelman, the store aims to offer style-savvy New Yorkers something a little different. “We were getting frustrated seeing the same exact labels everywhere. There’s so much more out there, so we wanted to bring a new crop of designers into the city,” says Blank.

The store, which Blank notes retains the original brick wall, bar, and chandelier from the Kravitz days, is named for Dagny Taggart, the stern railroad executive in Ayn Rand’s novel Atlas Shrugged, and Barstow, California, the desert city where Johnny Depp starts to get a little (ahem) crazy in Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas. “Dagny’s just an amazing character because she’s aloof and tough as nails. We really liked associating our store with that,” says Titelman.

After traveling between London and Paris, as well as stalking international style blogs, the proprietors have curated an impressive stock list, featuring the likes of print mavens Swash London, British bag designer Sophie Hulme, and Dévastée. Local brands like Kaelen, Timo Weiland, and hat designer Satya Twena are also well represented in the boutique, with prices ranging between $100 and $1,500. Just to make sure there’s something for everyone, the duo has collaborated with Reason Clothing to bring vintage items to the shop and they have plans to launch their own line next season.

In keeping with the Bowery’s creative history, the store, which is not only caddy corner to the New Museum and across from Sperone Westwater Gallery but was also featured in Berenice Abbott’s 1935 photograph Tri-Boro Barber School, will have an art slant. Dagny + Barstow has collaborated with Artstar.com to offer a range of modestly priced prints and original works by up-and-coming artists. “This is such an exciting time for the Bowery,” says Blank. “There are so many wonderful galleries, shops, and restaurants and we’re excited to be a part of it.”

Dagny + Barstow, 264 Bowery, NYC, (212) 675-2346.

Photo: Greta Titelman

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Social intelligence

All Systems Go

February 8, 2012

Ready or not, New York fashion week is here. Today, Style.com’s Marina Larroude shared a few of her front row-worthy clothing picks for the week, from the Prada Saffiano leather car clutch to black and red suede Celine platforms—all pieces likely to catch a second look from Tommy Ton. Here, find out what the Style.com editors are planning to wear this week and what keeps them looking good after many late nights.

Nicole Phelps, executive editor
“Every time I go back and peek at Phoebe Philo’s Resort collection for Celine, I like it more. This week, I’m lusting after looks 4, 12, and 25, but especially 21. The two-tone turtleneck with the high-waisted leather jeans is the pulled-together yet cool look of my New York fashion week dreams.”

Tim Blanks, editor at large
“My fashion week essential is the backpack Tommy Ton has designed for Club Monaco. It’s a bottomless pit! My second essential is the oyster pan roast with uni toast, at the John Dory in the Ace Hotel. [It's] the kind of dish you leave home for and never go back.”

Marina Larroude, senior fashion editor
“The Dry Bar has finally opened a block away from my house. I hope to have more than a couple visits during the week, although in reality, I’ll probably be there just once. Ca & Lou, Jack Vartanian, and Repossi earrings will be my go-to jewelry—a fresh and easy update to any look.”

Celia Ellenberg, senior beauty editor
“I snagged my YSL Manifesto tote outside of Rodarte’s Fall 2010 show, and it’s been with me every season since. The pixelated strawberry printed satchel doubles as a pretty chic laptop carrier, and while I keep swearing that I’m going to invest in a new bag for fashion week that will hold my laptop, iPad, iPhone, notebook, flats, and my makeup essentials, said bag still somehow manages to elude me. Until it magically reveals itself, it’s all about doubling up with the YSL tote.”

Kristin Studeman, associate news editor
“Coffee, my iPhone (with my amazing black Rebecca Minkoff studded case for it), my trusty black wedges (so I can run around the city from early in the morning until late at night), plenty of party dresses, and did I mention lots of coffee?”

Jessica Minkoff, editorial coordinator
“My Motorola Droid, a.k.a. my work phone. This season I will be attending the shows so my work phone will come in handy. I’ll be able to stay on top of all my e-mails, write my reviews, and catch some of the catwalk action.”

Maya Singer, special projects editor
“My Equinox gym membership. Not much time to work out, but there’s always a locker room by the shows where I can change clothes and a cafe with WiFi for me to work in. And, sometimes, I can even squeeze in a Pilates class.”

Darrell Hartman, contributor
“I’ll probably go through at least a couple Scout Books notepads. They’re made from 100 percent recycled paper and their slogan is ‘Little Books for Big Ideas,’ which is galvanizing, even if the ‘Big Ideas’ part isn’t always true in my case. Then Byredo Gypsy Water lotion for the morning after: Too much partying dries me out.”

Photo: Courtesy of Prada

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Designer update

Women’s Assembly, Now In Session

February 8, 2012

For several seasons now, girls have been ducking into Assembly New York, Greg Armas’ shop on the Lower East Side, and walking out with pieces from the Assembly menswear collection. Last night, Armas repaid his female fans for their devotion, debuting Assembly New York womenswear to a packed house at the Ludlow Street shop. “I always planned to do women’s, but it was important to me that I establish the Assembly aesthetic with menswear first,” Armas explained at the event. The new womenswear is androgynous and tailored to be slouchy, like the men’s stuff, with nubby knits, floor-length dusters, and raw-finished minimalist blousing executed in a fugue of neutrals. And, as Armas pointed out, there was no shortage of trousers either. “We’ve got three different styles out there,” he said, indicating the catwalk set up for the evening. “It seemed like trousers were the most interesting way of investigating masculinity for women.”

Photo: Margo Ducharme

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Outside sources

Kanye West To Show In Paris Again, Stella McCartney Launches Anti-Leather Campaign, Alexander Wang To Open Beijing Flaship, And More…

February 8, 2012

Kanye West will once again bring his collection to Paris fashion week. Question is: Will all of those famous designers once again turn up to sit in the front row on March 6? [WWD]

Stella McCartney has launched an anti-leather campaign in collaboration with PETA prior to London fashion week. The campaign includes a viral short
hosted by McCartney, which provides facts about the use of leather, skins, and fur. [Vogue U.K.]

Alexander Wang is set to open his Beijing flagship store next month. Located in the city’s Chaoyang District, the 4,000-square-foot space will be in the company of retailers such Balenciaga, Versace, and Lanvin. [WWD]

Seven New York has officially closed its brick-and-mortar store at 110 Mercer Street. Joseph Quartana, the shop’s owner, plans to keep Seven alive by expanding its e-commerce presence. [Hint]

Photo: Thomas Iannaccone/WWD

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Shopping alert

Stop Faking It

February 8, 2012

Following the CFDA and eBay’s first collaboration on one-of-a-kind designer tote bags promoting anti-counterfeiting, the two have partnered up once more for another “You Can’t Fake Fashion” campaign. After the first round of bags, designed by labels including Rodarte, The Row, and Rebecca Minkoff, sold out within hours, over 75 designers signed on to create a bag this time around. For good reason—it’s a cause very close to the designers’ hearts.

“Authenticity is a big part of what we do,” Billy Reid, who is on the roster of participating designers along with Maria Cornejo, Thom Browne, Tory Burch, and Prabal Gurung, tells Style.com. “We strive to make the best-quality goods that we can and we take a lot of pride in our work, so we are 100 percent behind supporting the CFDA and our fellow designers through You Can’t Fake Fashion.”

The bags ($200 for the customized totes, $45 for the standard) go on sale exclusively on eBay March 20, with all proceeds going to the CFDA. Above, an exclusive first look at one of the new bags from Milly. We suggest you order fast.

Photo: Courtesy Photo

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Social intelligence

Made Gives Us More To “Like”

February 8, 2012

Made Fashion Week (originally MAC & Milk) held what could be regarded as a “breakfast of champions” yesterday at Milk Gallery, where bloggers gathered for the unveiling of an innovative mobile app that broadcasts runway images in real time, with available features that make it easy to “like” an individual look, take notes, or e-mail or tweet it, all while the model is walking down the catwalk. “With this app, there’s no more need to hurriedly scribble notes on pen and paper,” Mazdack Rassi, creative director of Milk Group and co-founder of Made, told Style.com as we tested out the app using iPads and smart phones to a video projection of a fashion show.

The downloadable app uses Sonic Notify’s technology to match each image to soundless audio signals that will work exclusively during the Made shows and presentations (taking place at Milk Studios and the Standard Hotel), which include Alexander Wang, Proenza Schouler, Erin Fetherston, Peter Som, and Patrick Ervell. This also means that if you happen to be stuck in a taxi and are unable to attend the show, you can launch the app via the Livestream video broadcast of each show, which syncs to the Made Fashion Week app. Fashion week just got a little bit easier.

Photo: Courtesy Photo

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Model behavior

Models We Stand

February 7, 2012

“For too long, the modeling industry has been like the Wild West,” said Coco Rocha at last night’s launch party for the Model Alliance, a new nonprofit group organized by models, for models. Top models including Doutzen Kroes, Crystal Renn, Missy Rayder, and Ajak Deng stopped by the Standard Hotel to toast the cause. The Alliance started as an idea established by model Sara Ziff (the filmmaker behind the revealing documentary Picture Me), explored in a paper she wrote while studying community organizing at Columbia University. Ziff, who at 29 has now been modeling half her life, understands firsthand how young girls are often mistreated in an industry without real labor regulations. For example, catwalkers often begin working in their mid-teens, and many never get the chance to finish high school. They can go through an entire day of walking back-to-back runway shows without actually making any money, getting paid in “trade” (a.k.a. designer clothes) instead. And, there are still a great deal of complaints about backstage photographers taking unauthorized pictures of the girls changing. Typically, the models don’t speak up about these inequities because they know they’re highly replaceable. “Most models’ clout is as tiny as our size zero frames,” Ziff told Style.com. So she teamed up with former model and current fashion writer Jenna Sauers to give these girls a voice, and developed the Alliance along with the support of the CFDA and the new Fashion Law Institute at Fordham Law School. “Having experienced the highs and lows of this industry, I am ultra-excited about this,” said Rocha. “But we’ve still got a long way to go.”

Photo: Wendell Teodoro / Getty Images

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Social intelligence

Work Hard, Play Hard

February 7, 2012

“We call Jenne [Lombardo] the fashion fairy godmother—she’s amazing at putting creative people together,” said Nomia designer Yara Flinn last night at the W Union Square, where the hotel group was hosting its Fashion Next bash for Flinn and the rest of the designers in the program. Lombardo, W’s global fashion director and host for the evening, was on hand, along with the likes of Waris Ahluwalia and DJ Chelsea Leyland.

“Talent will only get you so far in this industry,” Lombardo told Style.com. “You also need a strong sense of business. We help them with that extra boost,” she explained of the program, which supports emerging designers. This week, they will host presentations for Fashion Next labels Suzanne Rae, Nomia, Haus Alkire, and Rochambeau. Bibhu Mohapatra, also a participant in the program, is set to stage his first runway show next week. “I’m ready to see things come to life,” he said. “We just did the second round of castings and I’m really excited—we have some beautiful girls walking the runway.”

As for post-show plans? The designers agreed market sales are first on the agenda, but that doesn’t mean all work and no play. “I’ll steal away to my little house upstate,” revealed Mohapatra. Meanwhile, Lombardo waxed pragmatic about fashion week’s parade of parties. “Every night we let loose and every morning we go to work,” she deadpanned. “It’s a high-stress, maximum-impact job, but you’ve got to take it with a grain of salt.”

Photo: Billy Farrell/BFAnyc.com

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Shopping alert

Boo Who?

February 7, 2012

Valentine’s Day cometh. Waris Ahluwalia prepareth. The jeweler and oft-quoted devotee of love is launching a new capsule collection, Boo by House of Waris, to bring his wares (and his sense of romance) to a wider audience. The project, he said by phone today, continues his “never-ending exploration of the world’s greatest mystery—love.” (He conceded that the world actually has three great mysteries: space, the ocean, and love.) The three-piece capsule, which includes earrings, a necklace, and a bracelet, is Ahluwalia’s more cost-effective foray into the world of jewelry. The gold pieces, which launch at Moda Operandi and will later be available at Colette, The Webster, and Kirna Zabête, retail for $250 and under. (Pavé versions are in the works for the future.)

To complement the range, Ahluwalia asked ten friends to make short films, given only the prompt, “You’re My Boo.” (”If you’re not ready to say I love you…” the designer offered by way of explanation.) Collaborators ranging from artist Matthew Frost (whose Chinese take on the theme kicks off the project below) and Mark Seliger to Olivier Zahm and Casey Neistat each created a short to be released daily, which will take viewers through Valentine’s Day—and beyond, which is part of the point. Love and Boo, Ahluwalia explained, shouldn’t be confined to one February day a year. “My love continues forever,” he said.

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