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August 22 2014

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A Bustle Is Forever—Especially When It’s Made by Yohji Yamamoto

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At this point, Gill Linton’s Byronesque has established itself as one of—if not the—premier online vintage-shopping destinations. When I last visited Linton, it was in a room filled with early Alexander McQueen, Comme des Garçons, Alaïa, Issey Miyake, and beyond. (Due to my vintage addiction, it was less full when I left, but that’s beside the point.) One of the most extraordinary pieces on display, however, was Yohji Yamamoto’s sculptural black bustle coat from his Fall 1986 collection. “There’s little [photographic] record of the coat,” offered Linton. “There are only three images of the garment online that we’ve been able to find, one of which is the famous silhouette shot by Nick Knight.” So, seeing as Linton is not only a seller of vintage treasures but a fashion-history devotee, she thought it only appropriate to pay tribute to the coat before it was shipped off to the Costume Institute at the Met, which purchased the rare topper for its archive. Enter My Dear Bustle, a film starring model Chelsea Wichmann, who dances to Zebra Katz x Hervé’s “Tear the House Up” while wearing Yamamoto’s iconic design. “The coat itself is very minimalist, but the sculptured contours of the bustle are quite complex. We wanted to create something that highlighted the craftsmanship of the design in a way that hasn’t been captured before, which was to get movement into an object that is so formidably sculptural,” explained Linton. “The slightest movement radically changed its appearance and added a sensuousness. We juxtaposed that with hard cuts in the edit, which were obviously led by the house baseline of Zebra Katz’s track,” Linton told me, noting that the contemporary tune helped underscore the coat’s timeless and forward-thinking aesthetic. “We love that we used a track reviewed as a ‘sweaty, dirty club hit.’ It’s so very not vintage, and that’s exactly what we set out to achieve. We wanted to show how contemporary the coat still is today. We never show vintage from a nostalgic perspective, it’s always about why it works now.”

Have an exclusive first look at My Dear Bustle above. And to view additional editorial content, absorb a feast of fashion history lessons, and shop a menagerie of delicious vintage wares, visit byronesque.com.

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EXCLUSIVE: Made Fashion Week’s Spring 2015 Lineup

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MADE Founders-sized
Since it launched in 2009, Made fashion week has increasingly been one of the highlights of the New York fashion week calendar. Its founders (pictured), Jenné Lombardo, Mazdack Rassi, and Keith Baptista, have continued to bring a slew of fresh talents (as well as more seasoned vets) into the fold, and this season is no different. They’ve just released their Spring 2015 lineup to Style.com, and they have 10 new additions—including Zana Bayne, Koonhor, Chris Gelinas’ CG, and Maison Kitsuné—to the Made programming this season.

“What really excites us is newness and visually stimulating shows or presentations,” Lombardo told Style.com. “With names like Zana Bayne, we’ve really enjoyed watching her trajectory—we’ve been fans from the sidelines. With others, like Maison Kitsuné, we have been friends with them for a long time and we’re just excited to have them joining us,” she said. They will be showing alongside returning labels like Public School, Tim Coppens, Jeremy Scott, and Sophie Theallet.

Other highlights this season include Gareth Pugh’s Lexus Design Disrupted show and an event presentation by Olivier Saillard, the director of the Musée Galliera in Paris.

Here’s the full list of shows and dates, below:

Thursday, September 4
Houghton
Costello Tagliapietra
Chromat
Zana Bayne
Lexus Design Disrupted: Gareth Pugh

Friday, September 5
Peter Som
CG
Cushnie et Ochs

Saturday, September 6
Ostwald Helgason
Baja East
Parsons MFA
Koonhor
Isa Arfen
Zoë Jordan
Jonathan Simkhai
Harbison

Sunday, September 7
Public School
Tim Coppens
Eckhaus Latta
Devon Halfnight Leflufy
Pyer Moss
Rochambeau

Monday, September 8
Ohne Titel
Olivier Saillard: “Models Never Talk”
Patrik Ervell
Maison Kitsuné

Tuesday, September 9
Timo Weiland
Collina Strada
Sophie Theallet

Wednesday, September 10
Jeremy Scott
Maria ke Fisherman
The Blonds

Photo: Courtesy of MADE

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Editor Obsessions: Perfect Trousers From Maison Martin Margiela

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noah-editor-obsessionem>Every day, Style.com’s editors reveal their current obsessions—and where to buy them. Check out today’s pick, below.

I spend a lot of time thinking about pants. Much more than any sane man should. What I’ve determined is that a perfect-fitting trouser is incredibly difficult to find, but not impossible. The anonymous, lab-coated designers of Maison Martin Margiela have figured it out. Lately, I’m really feeling a tapered, slightly longer fit with a slight crease down the leg. And always blue.

Maison Martin Margiela tapered trousers, $392, Buy it now

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Kate Moss Plays Director for British Vogue

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We’re used to seeing Kate Moss in front of the camera. Just in the past few weeks, the supe starred in the new Stella McCartney ad campaign and verified that her career is stronger than ever—this year was her most lucrative to date. (She’s reportedly worth $92 million.) Seeing her on the other side of the lens, however, isn’t something that happens quite so often. For British Vogue‘s September issue, Moss took her first stab at filmmaking with The Wolf in Her, a short film that captures Lara Stone frolicking in the woods for a Mario Sorrenti shoot. Shot on a Super 8 camera, the film has a fuzzy, ethereal quality to it, enriched by background music from her husband Jamie Hince’s band, The Kills. A few wolves also made it into the video, which makes us question the fear factor on set. We’d like to think Moss kept her cool, as always. Watch the film, here.

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At Barneys, a Slam Dunk for Russell Westbrook

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BARNEYS NEW YORK Hosts a Private Dinner in Honor of RUSSELL WESTBROOK and the Westbrook XO Barneys New York Limited Edition CollectionEven for an NBA pro like Russell Westbrook (pictured, right), the eighth floor of the Barneys New York flagship store last night was harder to navigate than a well-defended basketball court. Legions of fans, from adoring 12-year-old girls to designers like Thakoon Panichgul, turned out to support the Oklahoma City Thunder point guard and his new clothing and accessories collaboration with Barneys.

“My husband and I are very weirdly sporty—we are like Sporty Spice,” admitted Simon Doonan, creative ambassador-at-large for the retailer. “I said to [Russell] that I was his biggest fan, and then I realized I was probably his littlest fan—we had a good laugh about that,” he added, as he looked up at the towering 6’9″ Thunder star Kevin Durant and 6’8″ Denver Nuggets forward Kenneth Faried (pictured, left), who were both standing nearby.

He was right about that. Moments later, Durant tapped Westbrook on the shoulder and asked his teammate, “Man, how do I get some of this?” Pulling at Westbrook’s leather jersey shirt (made in collaboration with Marcelo Burlon), Durant said, “I want what you have, like this one.” No discounts for teammates, apparently. He was given directions toward the right clothing rack and the cash register.

Afterward, Westbrook and co. headed to Bill’s Food & Drink to continue the celebrations over dinner. “Yeah, my friends like the line a lot,” the 25-year-old first-time designer told Style.com. “You might not see them wearing it on the courts just yet, but obviously, they’ll be walking into the arena in it, for sure.” Will he be taking time out of his day job to check out the design competition on the runways during New York fashion week next month? “I’ll be around at the shows—I definitely want to see Public School.”

BARNEYS NEW YORK Hosts a Cocktail Party in Honor of RUSSELL WESTBROOK and the Westbrook XO Barneys New York Limited Edition Collection

Photos: Joe Schildhorn /BFAnyc.com

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