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August 23 2014

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Telfar Clemens Pops Up at Opening Ceremony and Hints at His Plans for NYFW

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telfarPeople poured into Opening Ceremony last night for a preview party to celebrate Telfar Clemens’ new pop-up in the store on Howard Street. The vodka flowed and a smiling life-sized sculpture of the designer sat in the window. “I want to be a new kind of American designer,” Clemens said over the noisy party din. If Clemens is consistently anything, it’s exactly that—new.

The OC pop-up from the ever-emerging designer includes soft, Snuggie-shaped tunics: “I’m all about using comfort fabrics and applying them to luxury clothes, which is a hard concept for anyone to get. They’re like, ‘But this is my bathrobe?’” It also includes leather bags emblazoned with the Telfar logo—in both full and miniature sizes—and T-shirts printed with images from the lookbook video that played overhead.

It was all very meta, and Clemens’ role shifted from the DJ throwing the party to the designer for whom the party was thrown throughout the night. “I’m about leveling the playing field between what’s fashion and what’s normal, what’s taste and what’s classic” he said. “I like mixing high-end and lowbrow and equalizing them. Not that one is good and one is bad. It just is what it is.”

Clemens is known for launching clothing collections alongside innovative, thought-provoking “projects.” Last season he created a crowdsourcing app in which the public was invited to submit looks for consideration on the runway. “The community styled my show,” he said. In February, he teamed up with Kmart for a collection presented at the New Museum.

So what’s the new, crazy concept for this Fall’s New York fashion week? “This season is all about owning my own concepts,” Clemons said. “We will be referencing ourselves in everything. Like when you see our belt loops or pockets, you know that is Telfar. We’re calling the theme ‘Patent Pending.’”

Photo: Rosalie Knox

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A Bustle Is Forever—Especially When It’s Made by Yohji Yamamoto

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At this point, Gill Linton’s Byronesque has established itself as one of—if not the—premier online vintage-shopping destinations. When I last visited Linton, it was in a room filled with early Alexander McQueen, Comme des Garçons, Alaïa, Issey Miyake, and beyond. (Due to my vintage addiction, it was less full when I left, but that’s beside the point.) One of the most extraordinary pieces on display, however, was Yohji Yamamoto’s sculptural black bustle coat from his Fall 1986 collection. “There’s little [photographic] record of the coat,” offered Linton. “There are only three images of the garment online that we’ve been able to find, one of which is the famous silhouette shot by Nick Knight.” So, seeing as Linton is not only a seller of vintage treasures but a fashion-history devotee, she thought it only appropriate to pay tribute to the coat before it was shipped off to the Costume Institute at the Met, which purchased the rare topper for its archive. Enter My Dear Bustle, a film starring model Chelsea Wichmann, who dances to Zebra Katz x Hervé’s “Tear the House Up” while wearing Yamamoto’s iconic design. “The coat itself is very minimalist, but the sculptured contours of the bustle are quite complex. We wanted to create something that highlighted the craftsmanship of the design in a way that hasn’t been captured before, which was to get movement into an object that is so formidably sculptural,” explained Linton. “The slightest movement radically changed its appearance and added a sensuousness. We juxtaposed that with hard cuts in the edit, which were obviously led by the house baseline of Zebra Katz’s track,” Linton told me, noting that the contemporary tune helped underscore the coat’s timeless and forward-thinking aesthetic. “We love that we used a track reviewed as a ‘sweaty, dirty club hit.’ It’s so very not vintage, and that’s exactly what we set out to achieve. We wanted to show how contemporary the coat still is today. We never show vintage from a nostalgic perspective, it’s always about why it works now.”

Have an exclusive first look at My Dear Bustle above. And to view additional editorial content, absorb a feast of fashion history lessons, and shop a menagerie of delicious vintage wares, visit byronesque.com.

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EXCLUSIVE: Made Fashion Week’s Spring 2015 Lineup

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MADE Founders-sized
Since it launched in 2009, Made fashion week has increasingly been one of the highlights of the New York fashion week calendar. Its founders (pictured), Jenné Lombardo, Mazdack Rassi, and Keith Baptista, have continued to bring a slew of fresh talents (as well as more seasoned vets) into the fold, and this season is no different. They’ve just released their Spring 2015 lineup to Style.com, and they have 10 new additions—including Zana Bayne, Koonhor, Chris Gelinas’ CG, and Maison Kitsuné—to the Made programming this season.

“What really excites us is newness and visually stimulating shows or presentations,” Lombardo told Style.com. “With names like Zana Bayne, we’ve really enjoyed watching her trajectory—we’ve been fans from the sidelines. With others, like Maison Kitsuné, we have been friends with them for a long time and we’re just excited to have them joining us,” she said. They will be showing alongside returning labels like Public School, Tim Coppens, Jeremy Scott, and Sophie Theallet.

Other highlights this season include Gareth Pugh’s Lexus Design Disrupted show and an event presentation by Olivier Saillard, the director of the Musée Galliera in Paris.

Here’s the full list of shows and dates, below:

Thursday, September 4
Houghton
Costello Tagliapietra
Chromat
Zana Bayne
Lexus Design Disrupted: Gareth Pugh

Friday, September 5
Peter Som
CG
Cushnie et Ochs

Saturday, September 6
Ostwald Helgason
Baja East
Parsons MFA
Koonhor
Isa Arfen
Zoë Jordan
Jonathan Simkhai
Harbison

Sunday, September 7
Public School
Tim Coppens
Eckhaus Latta
Devon Halfnight Leflufy
Pyer Moss
Rochambeau

Monday, September 8
Ohne Titel
Olivier Saillard: “Models Never Talk”
Patrik Ervell
Maison Kitsuné

Tuesday, September 9
Timo Weiland
Collina Strada
Sophie Theallet

Wednesday, September 10
Jeremy Scott
Maria ke Fisherman
The Blonds

Photo: Courtesy of MADE

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Editor Obsessions: Perfect Trousers From Maison Martin Margiela

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noah-editor-obsessionem>Every day, Style.com’s editors reveal their current obsessions—and where to buy them. Check out today’s pick, below.

I spend a lot of time thinking about pants. Much more than any sane man should. What I’ve determined is that a perfect-fitting trouser is incredibly difficult to find, but not impossible. The anonymous, lab-coated designers of Maison Martin Margiela have figured it out. Lately, I’m really feeling a tapered, slightly longer fit with a slight crease down the leg. And always blue.

Maison Martin Margiela tapered trousers, $392, Buy it now

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Kate Moss Plays Director for British Vogue

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We’re used to seeing Kate Moss in front of the camera. Just in the past few weeks, the supe starred in the new Stella McCartney ad campaign and verified that her career is stronger than ever—this year was her most lucrative to date. (She’s reportedly worth $92 million.) Seeing her on the other side of the lens, however, isn’t something that happens quite so often. For British Vogue‘s September issue, Moss took her first stab at filmmaking with The Wolf in Her, a short film that captures Lara Stone frolicking in the woods for a Mario Sorrenti shoot. Shot on a Super 8 camera, the film has a fuzzy, ethereal quality to it, enriched by background music from her husband Jamie Hince’s band, The Kills. A few wolves also made it into the video, which makes us question the fear factor on set. We’d like to think Moss kept her cool, as always. Watch the film, here.

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