49 posts tagged "3.1 Phillip Lim"
Black might be the motorcycle jacket’s de facto hue, but a number of designers have rendered ornate, polychrome twists on the wardrobe staple for Resort ’14. Take, for instance, 2013 CFDA Accessories Designer of the Year winner, Phillip Lim, who offered up an asymmetrical, cropped iteration of the moto jacket, replete with banded shoulders and an aerodynamic pattern that cut across the front (above, left). Combining a graphic eighties punch with a downtown sort of futurism, the topper was a prime example of Lim’s clean, sporty brand of quirkiness. Meanwhile, Erdem Moralioglu (above, right) showed an option that was thick, greasy, and yes, noir, but printed with a venerable thicket of English seaside flora (for inspiration, the designer looked through his mother’s old photographs from vacations to the British littoral). And up-and-coming New York-based designer Jonathan Simkhai turned out a custom-printed pony-hair jacket with sleeves in contrasting leather (above, center). “We wanted to create a Western feel, but with a techy spin,” the designer told Style.com when asked about the splatter motif. “It’s meant to be a futuristic cowhide.” And for the woman wondering how to pull off such an item, Simkhai offers: “Pair a statement jacket with soft silk track pants—it makes for a comfortable yet stylish transitional outfit.”
The CFDA Awards, which, sponsored by Swarovski, will be broadcast tomorrow morning exclusively on Style.com, were held tonight at Alice Tully Hall, and we’ve got to say, it was a particularly competitive year. Honorees Riccardo Tisci, Vera Wang, Colleen Atwood, Oscar de la Renta, and our very own Tim Blanks all took home their much-deserved trophies, and winners of the CFDA’s Womenswear, Menswear, and Accessory Designer of the Year Awards, as well as the Swarovski Emerging Designer Awards, were announced. Congratulations to this year’s victors, all of whom are listed below.
WOMENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernadez for Proenza Schouler
MENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
ACCESSORIES DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Phillip Lim for 3.1 Phillip Lim
SWAROVSKI AWARD FOR WOMENSWEAR
Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis for Suno
SWAROVSKI AWARD FOR MENSWEAR
Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne for Public School
SWAROVSKI AWARD FOR ACCESSORY DESIGN
By now, it’s been established that we’re in the midst of a nineties style revival (points of reference: the spring 2013 collections of Dries Van Noten, Phillip Lim, Dsquared², and House of Holland, just to name a few). But the art world is reliving the nineties, too. Earlier this month, the New Museum opened its NYC 1993: Experimental Jet Set, Trash and No Star exhibition, which, named for a Sonic Youth song, features artwork that was exhibited or produced in New York in 1993 (like Matthew Barney’s drawings, John Currin’s Girl in Bed painting, and Art Club 2000′s Conrans I print, which shows Gen Y-ers surrounded by Gap bags—below). And today, photographer Marcelo Krasilcic memorializes the full decade with his show 1990s at Colette in Paris. (It coincides with the release of his book, Marcelo Krasilcic: 1990s, which Colette will fete on March 1.)
So why all the nineties nostalgia? “I think we’ve explored the eighties already. We have these generational moments, and twenty years feels like the right time to look back,” says Jenny Moore, one of the curators of the New Museum exhibition. But aside from the twenty-year mark, there are cultural similarities between today and the grunge era, which are ripe for exploration. For instance, health care and gay rights were climbing onto the political stage in the nineties. Today, they’re front and center. “A lot of what happened then—in terms of culture, fashion, and music—is still very much a part of our cultural discourse,” says Moore. The early nineties also marked the beginning of Rudolph Giuliani’s tenure as mayor of New York City, which many believe marked the end of the dirty, dangerous, free-spirited party that was old NYC. “It was the last hurrah for New York in this gritty, anything-is-possible moment.”
Krasilcic, who came to New York from São Paulo to study photography in 1990, concurs. “It really did feel like everything was possible,” says the photographer, who at the time was working with the likes of Dazed & Confused, Purple, and Self Service. “The distinction between art and fashion photography was really blurred, and the clothes were just an accessory to the idea that we wanted to talk about.” Not surprisingly, his favorite nineties subject was indie queen Chloë Sevigny (above), whose photographs feature in his show and book. Don’t call it a comeback—Chloë is one nineties icon who never left.
The New Museum’s 1993: Experimental Jet Set, Trash and No Star runs through May 26; Marcelo Krasilcic’s exhibition will be open at Colette from today through March 20.
Phillip Lim may have launched his ready-to-wear line seven years ago, but he’s never put out a campaign. Until now, that is. For the first time since 2004, Lim has teamed up with photographer Alessio Bolzoni and stylist Nancy Rohde to shoot a series of ads, which star models Katryn Kruger and Franzi Mueller. “We as a brand have always made decisions based on instinct from the very beginning,” Lim told Style.com. “So Spring 2013 feels like the right time for us to launch our first-ever advertising campaign.” Showing Lim’s grunge-inspired Spring looks in action on a vibrant New York street, the ads have a raw urban edge that recalls a post-show street-style frenzy (not unlike the one we saw outside the designer’s Spring ’13 show last September). Lim’s first campaign (which debuts exclusively here on Style.com) will appear in the spring issues of Another Magazine, Love, Interview, and The Gentlewoman, among others
New models’ careers are often made on the runways, but posing for pre-fall lookbooks can really build up a girl’s momentum. Several fresh faces in particular have been making waves this season. First up is Tilda Lindstam, whose star continues to rise. Casting directors’ favorite Swede-of-the-moment walked down the runway at Oscar de la Renta and Calvin Klein, and also appeared in lookbooks for A-list labels like Givenchy, Acne and Prabal Gurung. Meanwhile, pouty French beauty Marine Deleeuw, one of Spring’s top ten catwalk rookies, showed off her editorial chops at Cßline, Lanvin, Narciso Rodriguez, Rag & Bone, Donna Karan, and Barbara Bui. Another up-and-comer who’s made an impact over the past several weeks is redhead Magdalena Jasek. She recently scored the Louis Vuitton Spring campaign, walked in Calvin Klein’s show, and turned up on the pages of lookbooks for Cßline, Thakoon Addition, and Escada. Finally, we can’t get enough of Valery Kaufman. The model debuted at Alexander Wang’s Spring ’12 show, logged an impressive number of Spring ’13 runways, and really hit her stride during pre-fall, posing for 3.1 Phillip Lim, Narciso Rodriguez, and Carven. Be sure to keep an eye out for these ladies on the Fall ’13 catwalks—the shows start February 7.