4 posts tagged "A Detacher"
The Spring ’14 collections are under way in New York, and will be followed by the shows in London, Milan, and Paris. Before their new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. Our entire selection of Spring ’14 previews is available here.
WHO: A Détacher, designed by Mona Kowalska
WHERE: New York
WHEN: Friday, September 6
WHAT: “Be obedient, but better to be disobedient.”— Mona Kowalska. The designer sent us a sneak peek at her Spring ’14 collection, above.
As we enter into a month of fashion shows, we’ve asked some of this season’s biggest stars and most anticipated new talents to offer a sneak peek. Naturally, it’s a busy time for everyone—designers and fashion watchers alike—so we’re pioneering the split-second preview: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. To view all of our Fall ’13 previews, click here.
WHO: A Détacher, designed by Mona Kowalska
WHERE: New York, NY
WHEN: Friday, February 8
WHAT: “Exploring notions of comfort, style, identity & chance through the lens of travel. What you bring, buy & observe, what posture you assume.” —Mona Kowalska. The designer sent us two inspiration images, above.
The Cannes Film Festival is the site of much power-brokering and networking. But for Ten lingerie designer Daphne Javitch, it was the airport afterward where the magic happened. On her way home from attending the festival with her friend Michelle Williams, Javitch spotted a hero of hers in passport control: the French photographer Brigitte Lacombe, who over the course of decades has shot celebrities and politicians, and undertaken long-term collaborations with Miuccia Prada, David Mamet, and Martin Scorsese.
Behold the power of the fandom. “She was so striking-looking and so direct and wonderful in her approach to me, I said, ‘Let’s speak when we are both back in New York at some point,’ ” Lacombe recalled by phone from—again—Cannes. The two kept in touch, and while Williams was filming My Week With Marilyn, Javitch suggested that her old friend and her new one get together. “When you do a project with no assignment, something you do on your own for the pleasure of doing it, because you’re taken with the idea or with someone, for the beauty of it, to just do it—every time I did a project like that, something good usually comes of it,” Lacombe said. The results of the Williams-as-Monroe sitting eventually went far and wide: One of Lacombe’s photos became the film’s poster. Another ended up on the cover of German Vogue. Javitch and Lacombe went on to work together on a variety of projects, like the series of covers the latter shot for New York magazine’s Fall Fashion issue in 2011.
So when, between her design consulting and the occasional styling gig, Javitch embarked on Ten’s first-ever collaboration, on two styles of Italian cotton underwear and two bras with Mona Kowalska of the New York label A Détacher, Lacombe was a natural—if not a given—to call on for help. And she obliged, shooting the two women wearing their creations in her studio, another assignment-free project with a happy ending: It debuts here on Style.com. “I was stunned when you wrote that she was willing to do it,” Kowalska admitted at a preview in her Mott Street shop. “There’s been a lot of hand-shaking,” Javitch confirmed with a smile. Of the trembling, rather than the power-brokering, variety.
The Ten x A Détacher knickers, $45, and bras, $60, are available today at A Détacher, 262 Mott Street, NYC, (212) 625-3380, adetacher.com. For more information, visit tenundies.com.
Necessity, as they say, is the mother of invention. Mona Kowalska can attest to the truth of that particular proverb herself: Faced with a daunting euro/dollar exchange rate, the A Détacher designer decided to improvise a version of a favorite fabric, and wound up liking her adaptation so much more than the original that she was inspired to stage a fashion show for the first time in more than five years. “When you come up with something this nice, you want to spend a little longer with it,” Kowalska explained, fondling a jacket made from hand-crocheted patches of hospital gauze. “I love these pieces, they’re like summer furs. I did a hand-crochet of shoelaces, too.” Creative problem-solving like that helps to explain why Kowalska has become something of a legend to the fans who’ve flocked to her A Détacher storefront in Nolita over the past decade. And perhaps it’s only fitting that for her tenth anniversary collection, which she’s showing tonight, Kowalka chose as her muse another woman who made an outsize impression from limited means: Joan of Arc. “I wanted to reflect Joan’s vulnerability and not just do a bunch of armored looks.” Though an armor influence can be detected, Kowalska has channeled Joan into pieces—especially featherweight dresses and hand-woven knits—that are profoundly oversized. “You wear armor in the first place because you’re vulnerable. You feel small, so you make yourself big.”