13 posts tagged "Acne Studios"
Emma Watson set the Internet abuzz on Sunday night when she turned up at the Golden Globes in a backless red apron dress with cropped black cigarette pants from Raf Simons’ most recent Dior Haute Couture collection. Lovers and haters alike took to Twitter to comment. The Bling Ring actress, for her part, said, “It felt original. It felt a bit different.” We couldn’t agree more. In our book, Watson’s age-appropriate outfit raised the sartorial bar for awards season attire. In any case, it sure beat another predictable gown.
Coincidentally or not, the dress-over-pants look had a particularly strong showing at the recent Pre-Fall collections. Slips were paired with cropped trousers at both 3.1 Phillip Lim and Elizabeth and James. And we noticed similar takes on layering at Acne Studios and J Brand, only their pants were closer to leggings, cut from a scuba-like satin and leather, respectively.
“Polar Vortex” was the phrase on everyone’s blistered lips this week during a bitter cold spell that sent most of the U.S. into a deep freeze. As we learned firsthand while trudging to and from appointments on the city’s icy sidewalks, even the most thermodynamic winter coat (plus a hat and gloves) wasn’t enough for bone-chilling temperatures like these. Did designers divine this subzero weather? The new Pre-Fall collections offer plenty of fresh ideas for bundling up in style. Blanket dressing, in particular, has emerged as one of the season’s most welcome trends. Labels including Acne Studios, Chloé, Vionnet, and Chanel featured soft wraps made for swaddling. For the finale at his Burberry Prorsum menswear show in London yesterday, Christopher Bailey draped heritage plaid blankets over each model’s left shoulder. Geraldo da Conceicao at Sonia Rykiel, meanwhile, struck a similar cozy note with piled-on sweaters draped around the neck like stoles.
Acne Studios is heading to Downtown L.A. Tomorrow, the Swedish brand will open its largest store in the world (and its second stateside location) in the city’s Eastern Columbia Building—a thirteen-story 1930s art-deco landmark with a deep blue and decorative gold facade. “It started with the building, to be honest,” creative director Jonny Johansson told Style.com of his decision to decamp to an unexpected part of the city rather than one of its high-gloss shopping locales. “We can afford to not do what people think has to be done,” he continued. “And we always work with the concept of the space—we like to find somewhere historic and interesting, and then do something contemporary inside.”
The 5,000-square-foot, single-level space was based on Johansson’s own vision. “I tried to not learn the history of the building,” he said. “I just wanted it to speak to me.” The result is a futuristic interior with exposed columns and structural details that fit Johansson’s concept of modernity. The formatted rows of merchandise are expansive, as the store houses Acne’s men’s and women’s ready-to-wear and denim, as well as bags, accessories, and footwear. Though sleek and structural, the design actually embraces Johansson’s desire for privacy. “When you walk through the store, you see columns that create these private areas,” he said, referring to the mazelike floor plan. “I like to stay a little bit more private when I shop, and I think this structure allows for that.” Meanwhile, the flagship’s adjoining ilcaffè coffee shops—one of Johansson’s favorite spots back home—will offer customers a true taste of Stockholm.
Shifting the paradigm of what downtown means to the L.A. fashionscape, Acne’s L.A. flagship seems to be a beacon of what’s to come. Rumors of Aesop and A.P.C.’s arrival are swirling, and the new Ace Hotel down the street is receiving the finishing touches for an early 2014 bow. But at present, local shoppers have plenty to be excited about: In addition to the new store, Johansson has designed a limited-edition scarf (above) that boasts a print of the brand’s new SoCal home. Naturally, it’s available exclusively in L.A.
Acne Studios opens this Wednesday in the Eastern Columbia Building, 855 South Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90014.
In the streets and on Tommy Ton’s pages in the latest issue of Style.com/Print, jeans are more dressed-down than ever—shredded, distressed, and faded to a fare-thee-well. But it was a different story on the Spring runways, where polished denim ruled. At his Louis Vuitton swan song, Marc Jacobs gave dungarees a couture twist with jet-beaded pockets. Olivier Rousteing upped the ante at Balmain, trussing soft, faded chambray with major metal chains. And Joseph Altuzarra sent out tailored pieces featuring indigo prints in the style of Japan’s elaborate “boro” patchworks. Dark-rinse denim was also in the spotlight at Acne Studios, Versace, and Derek Lam. Even the Valentino designers got in on the act, whipping up a ball skirt (actually, full-leg culottes) from the stuff.
There’s no shortage of deejays on the fashion scene, with your Misshapes and your Harleys and your Alexas and what have you. But Mimi Xu—who goes by the name of Misty Rabbit when she’s on the decks—has a particularly impressive knack for blending unexpected musical genres (think Berlin’s ambient electro mixed with classical jazz fading into a cool spin of disco-funk) into cohesive and oh-so-catchy sets. She’s an eager bunny, and knows just how to get the party going for the likes of Miu Miu, Prada, Fendi, Acne Studios, and too many others to name. This season, the Shanghai- and Copenhagen-raised but London-based sound designer is as busy as ever. She mixed the soundtracks for Yigal Azrouël, Catherine Malandrino, Tome, and Ostwald Helgason in New York, developed runway music for Topshop, Julien Macdonald, and Emilia Wickstead in London, and dropped a special Fall/Winter mix for Mytheresa.com just last week. Next up? A hotly anticipated party for Moncler’s Pharrell Williams collaboration in Paris this evening, and a personal design project, which will undoubtedly become the requisite accessory for music-loving cool girls come holiday season. Here, Xu talks to Style.com about her Mytheresa.com mix, the difference between playing parties and runways, and her favorite new artists.
You’ve done a lot of shows this season. How does deejaying a fashion show differ from deejaying a party?
Deejaying is about a spontaneous, fun, and playful way of sharing music. It’s about getting the party going. When you do a soundtrack, it’s very nerdy and unglamorous—you’re behind the scenes, you’re really working with the designer, and you’re creating something with the designer to really reflect his collection. It’s not about what I like. Of course, it’s about my influences and my take on music. But I’m there to showcase the collection. I love doing both, but they’re very different. Show soundtracks take a lot longer. It’s a much more technical process—it’s much more creative, and it’s more intellectual. And with soundtracks, everything’s set in stone previously. On the day of the catwalk, you don’t have to do anything besides cuing the show. But when you deejay, things never go to plan. Anything can happen on the dance floor. I can fill up the stage—who knows?
What have designers been asking you to play this season?
There are no specific trends this season. Each designer had their own inspirations. Musically, I went from Mississippi blues to Brazilian seventies experimental Tropicalia movement to psychedelic rave to classical theatrical to French electro. It’s a big range, so you need to be very erudite in your music knowledge. Designers need that.
What are you going to play for the Moncler-and-Pharrell Williams party?
I’ve been thinking today that we’re gonna do something quite hip-hop-y. But I don’t know! You can’t play Pharrell Williams tracks. I’d be embarrassed to play someone’s track when they’re in the room. So I’m not sure yet…. Obviously, I’m gonna have a lot of R&B and hip-hop, but it’s gonna go into disco and a few electronica-sounding tracks, too. I need to get people dancing, so I’ll see tonight how it will go. Continue Reading “Misty Rabbit Talks Spinning Fashion’s Soundtracks” »