49 posts tagged "Acne"
Acne presented its new Fall collection at Stockholm Fashion Week yesterday. Fans who couldn’t make it to Sweden to see the show, which took place at a stately, sculpture-filled home called Millesgården and featured models on plinths (good thing too, those platform boots look mighty high), will be happy to hear that the label is reprising the event in London on February 9. Expect a similar setup. The presentation will be held at Sir John Soane’s Museum, an antique and artwork-filled town house built in 1824 by the architect that has never before been used for a fashion show. Mind those Givenchy Nightingales, ladies. Large bags aren’t allowed inside.
Seeing as it only happens twice a year, the publication of an issue of Acne Paper is a cause celebre in its own right. The magazine’s editor in chief, Thomas Persson, in town for tonight’s launch party at the New York Public Library, talked to Style.com about the future of the world, how to shop, and the aesthetic of eroticism. The Oslo native studied fashion journalism at Central Saint Martins before moving to Stockholm and landing the lead role at Acne Paper. He’s been putting together the oversize book since its inception in 2005, seven issues ago. Each issue has a theme, and this issue’s theme is Tradition.
You do things a little differently at Acne Paper. Can you tell me about coming up with the concept for the magazine?
I was really sort of bored with all of celebrity culture and the focus on consumerism. So I wanted to do a magazine that was not about consumerism and not about celebrity. And then I also wanted something substantial to read, and I’ve always found that conversation is a good format to really get the reader directly into the material. Also, we couldn’t afford fabulous journalists. So to begin with, we found people who could converse, really. It became a very personal voice in a magazine. I was really trying to build bridges between different disciplines and areas of knowledge, in the sense that politics has to do with art, has to do with fashion, has to do with lots of things.
So is the lack of recognizable celebrities on your covers a conscious choice?
Yes. I’m not against celebrities. It’s just that so many other magazines are doing it, so it’s nice to have an alternative.
Do the issue’s themes spring from your head fully formed, or are you influenced by contributions you’re getting from writers?
I think I have an overall idea. In “Elegance,” for instance, I didn’t want to do aggressive elegance. I wanted to do something that was more sensitive and human. I didn’t want it to be this elegant woman with beautiful red lips, and a fabulous hat, and a tight, black, little dress. Elegance can be so many things. It can be how you deal with people. To me it’s about consideration, intelligence, and being sophisticated, in a way. We did a big story on Philippe Petit, the guy who [tight-rope] walked [between] the Twin Towers. For me that was the ultimate elegance, because there was so much effort behind it, but it seemed so effortless when he was doing it. It took him six years to build himself up to do it and then when he did it, it seems like it was nothing.
The theme for this issue is Tradition, and in the letter from the editor you note that now is a particularly good time to address our complex relationship and understanding of tradition. Why now?
It was something in the air, a mood. I saw more and more of my friends paring down in how they were dressed. They were wearing again their mother’s knitted sweaters, subtle colors; there was more of an earthiness around it. Tradition also brings a sense of security, the familiar; it’s something that you can pass on for generations. Going back to celebrity and consumerism, all of that all seemed very, very empty, and yet we’ve had so much of it for so long, that going back to your roots seemed to me very exciting and new.
How do you feel about the future of our consumer-driven culture in general? Are we going to hell in a hand basket or are you more of an optimist?
I read an interesting interview with Lee Edelcourt, she’s this quite amazing trend forecaster, and said that in 2050, the farmers will be the new elite, and I thought that was kind of nice because I think we’re looking for the unique more and more. We’re looking for something handmade. There’s more luxury to that than what we perceive today as luxury. So I’m optimistic in that sense. But who knows what’s going to happen? For me, I just think we should all slow down.
Do you know what will the next theme be?
It’s going to be on eroticism. It’s sort of a departure from tradition, so it’s a completely different feel. I think, in terms of creativity and creation, which we are a lot about, everything starts with sex. Sex has inspired many artists. It’s sort of a timeless thing. It’s also very human. It has a certain kind of aesthetic to it. I couldn’t do an issue on say, passion, because I don’t get an aesthetic world in my mind. With eroticism, it’s more tangible.
What does come to mind for you?
Something that’s not in your face. You have lots of layers, you can’t really see everything. It’s an idealization of something. Fantasy and joy.