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August 28 2014

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53 posts tagged "Acne"

New Nirvana?

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I spent yesterday at Capsule, an upstart trade show here in Las Vegas, where many of the most progressive young labels are showing—it’s a good barometer for next year’s trends. What will the cool kids be wearing in 2010? By the looks of it, anything that hearkens back to 1994. I spotted paisley print button-downs at Acne, plenty of Navajo-inspired pullovers with kangaroo pockets, and the above striped mini-backpack at Opening Ceremony. All of the color is a welcome shift from this year’s focus on black leather, white tees, and denim shorts, but do you really want to smell like teen spirit all over again?

Acne Kicks Off The Spring 2010 Season In London

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There isn’t a fashion watcher on earth who isn’t dying to know what the news for Spring’s going to be—and the action’s already started in London at Acne’s presentation. Even from halfway across the room and through a thicket of models standing in formation, it was easy to zero in on the newest idea: two ethereally hip, long pale dresses. Too early to say, of course, whether fluid-to-the-floor will sweep the world. But they did make the body-con dresses standing nearby seem a bit seen-that-last-year. And that counts for something. Jonny Johansson, just arrived from Sweden to present at the Barbican Centre, said he’d been at a friend’s wedding on a beach in the south of France and found himself designing in a meditative, spiritual mood. “I don’t really like hippy or New Age, but I felt I wanted something slightly mystical.” The lineup was full of the urban-chic tailoring and jeans that have made Johansson an accidental cult hero to thousands. One of them, a small blonde woman in a short white dress, turned out to be Kylie Minogue. “I don’t know her, but it’s nice to meet her,” he shrugged, looking surprised. Johansson has a collaborative curiosity and an instinct for doing things just because they feel right to him. “I don’t like traveling much, or think about ‘inspiration.’ I dig where I stand,” he explained. He worked in loose silks for drop-crotch pants and tie-dyed, scrunched textures, sharpening the look with cropped jackets and several variations on cutaway vests. He also set about elaborating on and elevating Acne denim by sending jeans to the British jeweler Husam El Odeh, who came back with flexible silver nickel plates to bolt on as knee armor and back-pocket patches. There were also signature suedes, and one great dusty-gray jacket with a fringe in back. But it was the two narrow, languid floor-length silhouettes—one in body-skimming ivory jersey, the other in pale beige crepe with long sleeves and shoulder pads—that best conveyed the relaxed but subtly glamorous aura Johansson was talking about. Their simplicity would qualify them as wearable by day, but his addition of seemingly random sprinklings of mismatched Crystallized Swarovski Elements lent a touch of cool magic to distinguish the look from minimalism.

Photo: Courtesy of Acne

Yea, Nay, Or Eh: Embellished Shoes

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I just spent the past two weeks in Los Angeles, and while I was there, I very coincidentally spent a lot of time thinking about shoes. I’m friends with these guys—”dudes,” if you know what I mean—and they work out of a storefront in West Hollywood that has frosted glass windows facing the street. Bear with me here, this gets back to shoes. About a foot of said windows is not frosted, the foot closest to the ground, and my friends spend a decent amount of their downtime making snap judgments about the people who walk by, based entirely on their footwear. One day, I came to the door in stiletto-heel Givenchy cage shoes, and it was clear they were expecting someone else. A supermodel, presumably. Anyway, it’s an interesting exercise. Spot a woman in practical brogues, and immediately, you comprehend a businesslike sensibility at work. Vintage moccasins say: I’m a hipster. Low-heeled brown pumps: Lawyer. FitFlops: Sucker. And so on. With all due respect to the several brands I love that are bringing out super-adorned shoes for Fall and now for Resort, the reasonable assumption I would draw, upon subjecting their footwear to the frosted-glass window test, is: I am nuts. Studs, spikes, chain, giant crystals, pearls, and God knows what else have embellished shoes and boots the past few seasons. Now, Givenchy is throwing hair into the mix, new brand Omelle is going with fur, and Acne is coming out with heels that are covered with multicolored pompoms. I mean, what’s next? Dead bugs? Nail tips? Maybe designers should just cover the vamps of their shoes for Spring in Velcro and see what sticks. I’m all for an artfully embellished shoe, but I feel like some kind of trend tipping point has been reached. Do you agree? Comments, please.

Photo: Courtesy of Acne

The Skinny On Legs

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Make of this information what you will: I was recently informed by the publicists for both Acne and Ksubi that the denim makers will be introducing their “skinniest jeans ever” for fall. (Same wording, both times.) Given that neither Acne nor Ksubi has ever been known for the roominess of their fits, this bit of spin struck me as either specious or confirmation of the fact that the long, skinny leg is coming back with a vengeance. Look at the Fall runways—leather leggings, over-the-knee boots, mini everything. Sigh. Anyone blessed with stick-thin pins can stop reading now; for everyone else, Equinox celebrity fitness trainer Kacy Duke has some tips on how to shape up and sleek out your thighs in time for the Fall/Winter deliveries. Duke—who has trained Julianne Moore, Kirsten Dunst, and Gwen Stefani—suggests that women looking for long and lean focus on fluid movements with a “sense of grace.” “This is not about pumping iron,” she notes. “That’s going to bulk you up. What you need to do is pull up, like a dancer, and exercise those muscles that lift and separate.” (She goes on to note that “lifting and separating” starts at the back side—long, lean legs do not emerge from a sagging behind.) Duke sets out plenty of exercises in her book The Show It Love Workout, but her silver-bullet move is one you can do at home, without any weights, provided there’s a flat, relatively slick surface where you live. Step one foot on a towel, skate that leg out as wide as you can, so that the leg on the floor goes into a lunge, touch the ground, then skate the towel foot back, making sure to keep it parallel to the one on the floor. Once you’ve arrived back at an upright position, skate the same leg behind you, into a deep lunge, touch the floor, and pull the back leg up again, keeping it straight. Repeat, ad nauseam, and yes, this is all harder than it sounds. Then do it a bunch of times with the towel on the other foot, thinking all the while, as Duke puts it, “of the goddess inside you.” (Seriously, it helps. That whole fluidity and grace thing, etc.) Duke swears up and down that doing this one thing—daily—will result in a noticeable improvement in your silhouette within three weeks. Give it until July, when the leather leggings and “skinniest jeans ever” are due to arrive in stores, and you might feel all right about your wardrobe for fall.

 

 

Photo: Courtesy of Acne

 

Liberty in London Has Some Work Done

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“It’s got to be a bit mad, doesn’t it?” said Yasmin Sewell, creative consultant for the recently revamped Liberty store. “It is Liberty, after all.” After an extensive renovation aimed at modernizing Liberty and restoring the landmark to its concept shop roots, the store debuted its new look on February 15. “We’ve tightened our edit considerably,” Sewell explained as she led the way through the new Avant-Garde room, which devotes its space to designers such as Margiela, Anne Valérie Hash, Acne, Dries Van Noten, and Rick Owens. The former buying director at Browns, Sewell is also bringing Liberty up-to-date by locking down exclusives with designers such as handbag phenom Katherine Fleming (who will host a trunk show at the store on Wednesday) and jewelry makers Eddie Borgo and Pamela Love. But the Liberty heritage remains front and center: Tamara Salman’s store brand gets pride of place in the accessories department, for example, and the historic sewing floor remains intact. (Sorry, out-of-towners, quilting classes are booked through spring.) “I’m happy to say,” notes Sewell, nodding at the browsers paging through fabric bolts and hunting for thimbles, “that you can still get pretty lost up here.”

Photo: Dan Kitwood / Getty Images