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July 31 2014

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50 posts tagged "Acne"

The Skinny On Legs

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Make of this information what you will: I was recently informed by the publicists for both Acne and Ksubi that the denim makers will be introducing their “skinniest jeans ever” for fall. (Same wording, both times.) Given that neither Acne nor Ksubi has ever been known for the roominess of their fits, this bit of spin struck me as either specious or confirmation of the fact that the long, skinny leg is coming back with a vengeance. Look at the Fall runways—leather leggings, over-the-knee boots, mini everything. Sigh. Anyone blessed with stick-thin pins can stop reading now; for everyone else, Equinox celebrity fitness trainer Kacy Duke has some tips on how to shape up and sleek out your thighs in time for the Fall/Winter deliveries. Duke—who has trained Julianne Moore, Kirsten Dunst, and Gwen Stefani—suggests that women looking for long and lean focus on fluid movements with a “sense of grace.” “This is not about pumping iron,” she notes. “That’s going to bulk you up. What you need to do is pull up, like a dancer, and exercise those muscles that lift and separate.” (She goes on to note that “lifting and separating” starts at the back side—long, lean legs do not emerge from a sagging behind.) Duke sets out plenty of exercises in her book The Show It Love Workout, but her silver-bullet move is one you can do at home, without any weights, provided there’s a flat, relatively slick surface where you live. Step one foot on a towel, skate that leg out as wide as you can, so that the leg on the floor goes into a lunge, touch the ground, then skate the towel foot back, making sure to keep it parallel to the one on the floor. Once you’ve arrived back at an upright position, skate the same leg behind you, into a deep lunge, touch the floor, and pull the back leg up again, keeping it straight. Repeat, ad nauseam, and yes, this is all harder than it sounds. Then do it a bunch of times with the towel on the other foot, thinking all the while, as Duke puts it, “of the goddess inside you.” (Seriously, it helps. That whole fluidity and grace thing, etc.) Duke swears up and down that doing this one thing—daily—will result in a noticeable improvement in your silhouette within three weeks. Give it until July, when the leather leggings and “skinniest jeans ever” are due to arrive in stores, and you might feel all right about your wardrobe for fall.

 

 

Photo: Courtesy of Acne

 

Liberty in London Has Some Work Done

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“It’s got to be a bit mad, doesn’t it?” said Yasmin Sewell, creative consultant for the recently revamped Liberty store. “It is Liberty, after all.” After an extensive renovation aimed at modernizing Liberty and restoring the landmark to its concept shop roots, the store debuted its new look on February 15. “We’ve tightened our edit considerably,” Sewell explained as she led the way through the new Avant-Garde room, which devotes its space to designers such as Margiela, Anne Valérie Hash, Acne, Dries Van Noten, and Rick Owens. The former buying director at Browns, Sewell is also bringing Liberty up-to-date by locking down exclusives with designers such as handbag phenom Katherine Fleming (who will host a trunk show at the store on Wednesday) and jewelry makers Eddie Borgo and Pamela Love. But the Liberty heritage remains front and center: Tamara Salman’s store brand gets pride of place in the accessories department, for example, and the historic sewing floor remains intact. (Sorry, out-of-towners, quilting classes are booked through spring.) “I’m happy to say,” notes Sewell, nodding at the browsers paging through fabric bolts and hunting for thimbles, “that you can still get pretty lost up here.”

Photo: Dan Kitwood / Getty Images

ACNE: London or Bust

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Acne presented its new Fall collection at Stockholm Fashion Week yesterday. Fans who couldn’t make it to Sweden to see the show, which took place at a stately, sculpture-filled home called Millesgården and featured models on plinths (good thing too, those platform boots look mighty high), will be happy to hear that the label is reprising the event in London on February 9. Expect a similar setup. The presentation will be held at Sir John Soane’s Museum, an antique and artwork-filled town house built in 1824 by the architect that has never before been used for a fashion show. Mind those Givenchy Nightingales, ladies. Large bags aren’t allowed inside.

Photo: Courtesy of ACNE

challenging tradition at acne

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Seeing as it only happens twice a year, the publication of an issue of Acne Paper is a cause celebre in its own right. The magazine’s editor in chief, Thomas Persson, in town for tonight’s launch party at the New York Public Library, talked to Style.com about the future of the world, how to shop, and the aesthetic of eroticism. The Oslo native studied fashion journalism at Central Saint Martins before moving to Stockholm and landing the lead role at Acne Paper. He’s been putting together the oversize book since its inception in 2005, seven issues ago. Each issue has a theme, and this issue’s theme is Tradition.

You do things a little differently at Acne Paper. Can you tell me about coming up with the concept for the magazine?

I was really sort of bored with all of celebrity culture and the focus on consumerism. So I wanted to do a magazine that was not about consumerism and not about celebrity. And then I also wanted something substantial to read, and I’ve always found that conversation is a good format to really get the reader directly into the material. Also, we couldn’t afford fabulous journalists. So to begin with, we found people who could converse, really. It became a very personal voice in a magazine. I was really trying to build bridges between different disciplines and areas of knowledge, in the sense that politics has to do with art, has to do with fashion, has to do with lots of things.

So is the lack of recognizable celebrities on your covers a conscious choice?

Yes. I’m not against celebrities. It’s just that so many other magazines are doing it, so it’s nice to have an alternative.

Do the issue’s themes spring from your head fully formed, or are you influenced by contributions you’re getting from writers?

I think I have an overall idea. In “Elegance,” for instance, I didn’t want to do aggressive elegance. I wanted to do something that was more sensitive and human. I didn’t want it to be this elegant woman with beautiful red lips, and a fabulous hat, and a tight, black, little dress. Elegance can be so many things. It can be how you deal with people. To me it’s about consideration, intelligence, and being sophisticated, in a way. We did a big story on Philippe Petit, the guy who [tight-rope] walked [between] the Twin Towers. For me that was the ultimate elegance, because there was so much effort behind it, but it seemed so effortless when he was doing it. It took him six years to build himself up to do it and then when he did it, it seems like it was nothing.

The theme for this issue is Tradition, and in the letter from the editor you note that now is a particularly good time to address our complex relationship and understanding of tradition. Why now?

It was something in the air, a mood. I saw more and more of my friends paring down in how they were dressed. They were wearing again their mother’s knitted sweaters, subtle colors; there was more of an earthiness around it. Tradition also brings a sense of security, the familiar; it’s something that you can pass on for generations. Going back to celebrity and consumerism, all of that all seemed very, very empty, and yet we’ve had so much of it for so long, that going back to your roots seemed to me very exciting and new.

How do you feel about the future of our consumer-driven culture in general? Are we going to hell in a hand basket or are you more of an optimist?

I read an interesting interview with Lee Edelcourt, she’s this quite amazing trend forecaster, and said that in 2050, the farmers will be the new elite, and I thought that was kind of nice because I think we’re looking for the unique more and more. We’re looking for something handmade. There’s more luxury to that than what we perceive today as luxury. So I’m optimistic in that sense. But who knows what’s going to happen? For me, I just think we should all slow down.

Do you know what will the next theme be?

It’s going to be on eroticism. It’s sort of a departure from tradition, so it’s a completely different feel. I think, in terms of creativity and creation, which we are a lot about, everything starts with sex. Sex has inspired many artists. It’s sort of a timeless thing. It’s also very human. It has a certain kind of aesthetic to it. I couldn’t do an issue on say, passion, because I don’t get an aesthetic world in my mind. With eroticism, it’s more tangible.

What does come to mind for you?

Something that’s not in your face. You have lots of layers, you can’t really see everything. It’s an idealization of something. Fantasy and joy.

a day in the life of: yasmin sewell, buyer for liberty of london

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Wednesday, October 1

8 a.m.

I’m not so great with early starts, but during Paris fashion week I need to break all my rules. I’m sure I’ll perk up once I see the extraordinary dresses at Balmain, which is my first appointment. I’m thinking I need to wear a nice dress today—I’m tired of looking like a slouchy boy. I decide it’s time for my new YSL stone wool jersey dress. The temperature dropped about ten degrees overnight, so that pretty much marks the end of my summer wardrobe until May.


9 a.m.

Balmain is out of this world—and so are the prices. One of the hardest thing any buyer has to do is work out which $25,000 dress to choose. And what size? It’s really a guessing game when you get to that level. The team at Liberty, including the CEO and I, deliberate over this for most of the morning without reaching a decision.


12:30 p.m.

Lunch with Antonio Berardi at Bouledogue. He’s one of the loveliest designers I know and a pleasure in every way to work with. We both eat some damn good swordfish with sweet potato. Batteries recharged for about two hours.


2 p.m.

I have an appointment with David Seeto, a personal favorite of mine. I’d like to order every dress I see. His color palette is divine this season—he has a way of designing the chicest dresses that are just so easy to wear all the time, with no expiration date.


3 p.m.

Meaning 4 p.m. because of the late start. It’s the Dries show. This is an important one to attend, as it’s a big one for Liberty. It’s not as strong on print as last winter and summer, but I guess he couldn’t continue that OTT floral print for yet another season. It’s still beautiful, though, and I know it will work well in the new Liberty space.

I find it impossible to feel grounded when I’m doing a lot of shows and appointments in one day. There’s so much around me that is capturing my attention and dozens of people to tune into…it’s hard not to come across a little scattered!


5 p.m.

An appointment with Acne, my other personal favorite. I should note that today is a particularly lovely day. It’s not always this pleasant, believe me! We are doing Acne’s first big space in Liberty when we relaunch next season. It’s a label that ticks every box—even boxes you didn’t know you wanted to tick! It’s a time-consuming appointment, as we are discussing their area and the many collaborations we plan to do together as well as the buy, which is usually a minimum two-hour appointment on its own.


8 p.m.

Back to my hotel, where I’m having a little dinner party on my private terrace. Just good friends, all of us here for fashion week. These kinds of nights take our minds off the job. There’s nothing like good music, great friends, and Hôtel Amour’s famous roast chicken to bring you back down to earth.

Photo: Scott Schuman