September 1 2014

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24 posts tagged "Adam Kimmel"

At Pitti, Collaborations From Kimmel And Throup


Among the 1,000-plus exhibitors at the 79th edition of Pitti, which opened in Florence on Tuesday, were Adam Kimmel and Aitor Throup, two longtime favorites, both launching new collaborations with iconic heritage brands and both coming up trumps by creating gotta-have-it hybrids between past and future that will make next fall a better place to be.

Kimmel worked with Carhartt. (A first look from that collection is above.) In his case, that was a whole lotta history. The family-owned company has been dressing America’s working stiffs since 1889, which is the kind of durable blue-collar kudos that has ensured Carhartt’s coolness with skaters and snowboarders. In other words, Kimmel’s heroes when he was a kid. He himself got his first piece of Carhartt outerwear—synthetic duck, quilt lining, corduroy collar (they still make it)—when he was 10. His own take on the brand is, in fact, less a collaboration than a 29-piece Kimmel collection manufactured by Carhartt, so he is able, as he says, “to offer a product at an incredible price point” to an audience that may have craved his Italy-produced signature line without having the readies to buy it. That said, the Kimmel-Carhartt connection is umbilical. The designer has always been acutely sensitive to function in his clothes, and his silhouette has always been forgiving—he used to call it “an American cut,” as opposed to Euro skinny-minnie. Still, he’s trimmed some of the Carhartt bulk. The stiffness is gone, too. In fact, to wear these clothes is to love them. A worker’s jacket in an almost luminous indigo moleskin was softer than velvet. A substantial parka/jean jacket hybrid (2-in-1 pieces are a Kimmel signature) was much lighter on the body than on the hanger. Such user-friendliness will win hearts, minds, and dollars when Kimmel/Carhartt shows up at Barneys later in the year. (Barneys’ Jay Bell brokered the relationship, so the store has an exclusive.)

Barneys is also where you’ll find Aitor Throup’s latest collaboration with sportswear giant Umbro (above). Last year, he remodeled the English football team’s uniform for its ill-fated World Cup appearance in South Africa. Now, he’s revisiting ten iconic pieces from Umbro’s archives (for example, the jacket worn by manager Alf Ramsay in 1966, the year England won the Cup). Throup is obsessive in his research. There’s at least two years’ worth in this new venture (it’s actually called Archive Research Project), and there aren’t many designers who could match Throup’s understanding of the way an athlete’s body moves in clothing. He refers to it as “data informing design,” which, techspeak aside, produces garments that follow and flatter the human form as elegantly and effectively as the finest bespoke tailoring. Throup is quick to point out that when Umbro launched in 1924, footballers’ uniforms were tailor-made. In restoring the essence of that tradition, he’s guaranteeing that sportswear will never be the same.

Photos: Courtesy of Adam Kimmel; Courtesy of Umbro

The Pitti Preview


Raffaello Napoleone, Pitti Immagine’s dapper CEO, convened a group of editors and trade officials—many chattering away in Italian—at Quattro in New York City for a briefing on the upcoming Pitti Uomo and Pitti W fairs. It was a whirlwind visit (Napoleone and company headed for the airport while most were still sipping espresso), but the news was all good. As has been announced, Gareth Pugh (left) will be the invited guest, presenting his new womenswear collection in Florence in January. (Via video message, he expressed his gratitude; Pitti’s special events director hinted that he’d be showing in an unlikely location—one that had never hosted a fashion show before.) Trussardi will be the invited guest for men’s, but the company has plans that go far beyond fashion. In the Stazione Leopalda in the heart of Florence, the label will not only host its fashion show, but also present an exhibition called 8 ½, one that will include contemporary artworks by Maurizio Catellan, Paul McCarthy, and Tino Sehgal. (There’ll even be a house made of bread, courtesy of Swiss conceptual artist Urs Fischer.) And Alberta Ferretti will kick off the event with a special collection presented, she said, “for women everywhere.”

The Florentine trade fair, which runs from January 11 to 14, will also play host to a variety of intriguing launches: a new archival project London-based designer Aitor Throup is undertaking with Umbro; a capsule collection celebrating the centennial of the Italian suit line Lubiam; and a new project from Adam Kimmel, who took his turn as Pitti’s invited menswear guest two years ago.

Photo: Courtesy of Pitti Immagine

Black Tie Among The Great Whites,
The Wisdom Of The Crowd, And More…


If you’re going to take your life in your hands, might as well do it in evening dress. That’s what David Blaine did when he swam—sans oxygen tank or cage—with a group of great white sharks in an Adam Kimmel tux for the designer’s new video (above). Kimmel and wife Leelee Sobieski screened the short for guests like Ed Norton, Harmony Korine, and Marina Abramovic this week, where it earned Abramovic’s highest praise: “That’s insane.” [NYT]

Derek Lam has announced a standalone line for eBay, the final rundown of which will be crowd-sourced. As one of our online compatriots notes, design by committee hasn’t always yielded the best results, but we’ll be interested to see what Lam turns out when the line launches in February. [WWD]

Lara Stone—she of the sultry ad campaign and often nude editorial—has won her case against French Playboy, which published photos of her without her permission last year. She’s donating her damages to the Great Ormond Street Hospital. [Fashionologie]

And speaking of good causes, here’s another: Nordstrom is finally opening a New York store, which will be a concept shop—one that donates its earnings to nonprofits. That’s a little less sexy than Lara using Playboy money to save the children, but no less commendable, we’re sure. [Racked]

Photo: Courtesy of Adam Kimmel

Kicks Fit For A Dogg


The gentlemen of hip hop have a famous taste for finery—and not just Kanye, either. (Take it from Cam’ron: “We Gucci, Louis, and Pucci men.”) For Spring ’11, designer Adam Kimmel returned the love, offering a sartorial collection inspired by “one of the most original artists of the last 30 years”—that is, Snoop (né Doggy) Dogg. Since the Dogg wouldn’t be caught dead without his kicks, Kimmel is debuting his first-ever sneaker with the Spring line.

“I’m making sneakers now because I finally found a great factory to produce them,” Kimmel told “But more to the point, the sneakers are coming out in tandem with my spring Snoop collection, which was inspired by Snoop Dogg and his West Coast style. Certainly the sneaker was a big part of that aesthetic. For my purposes, I aimed for something more streamlined and simple than the usual tricked-out basketball shoe. I went for something a little more user-friendly and luxurious while still keeping the urban feel.” Four styles are available in perforated leather with a matching or contrasting ankle wrap, all made in Kimmel’s European factories. (He’s serious about those factories—this is a guy who used to make combat boots in workshops that were also turning out Hermès.) And because scuffing up your shoes is a serious O.G. no-no, the collection nods, too, at fine rides, with a car-wheel rim motif embroidered on polos and printed on ties and cravats.

Photo: Courtesy of Adam Kimmel

A Night Off From Fashion At The New Bortolami Gallery


Man cannot live on fashion alone. And especially as the end of fashion fortnight (who ever said it’s just a week?) approaches, a little art starts to look very good. No surprise, then, to see the style types at the opening of the new Bortolami gallery last night. Artist (and fashion-friendly DJ) Nate Lowman; Adam Kimmel and his new bride, Leelee Sobieski; and The Webster’s Frederic Dechnik and Laure Heriard Dubreuil (pictured, with Lowman) all stopped by.

“This is a really fun space to work with,” Stefania Bortolami said of her new space on West 20th Street, one that’s roughly three times the size of her old one. To celebrate her new real estate, the inaugural show is a retrospective of past Bartolami exhibitions, including some of the hottest names in the business—Jack Pierson, Cecily Brown, Hanna Liden, and Gardar Eide Einarsson among them. Einarsson was in town from his home in Tokyo, joined by his gorgeous model-turned-PR-maven wife, Maryline. He’ll be working out of a Dumbo studio for six weeks. “I don’t really work too much in Tokyo because I don’t have a studio there,” he explained. “Basically I’m an intern for Maryline’s PR company; I just sit around and stuff envelopes all day!” Just another hardworking fashion publicist in New York, in other words—albeit one with a few works in permanent collections ’round the globe.

Photo: Antwan Duncan