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July 31 2014

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2 posts tagged "Adwoa Aboah"

Martine Rose and Opening Ceremony Go On a Gender-Bender

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Martine Rose

Martine Rose

The new collection by London-based designer Martine Rose, which debuts exclusively here, will hit Opening Ceremony this week. Though Rose is technically a menswear designer, the Opening Ceremony honchos decided to treat the line as unisex when they picked it up for their stores. And indeed, Rose’s ruffled jackets and roughed-up denim have an appeal that’s pretty genderless: Witness this shoot by Rose’s longtime friend Tyrone Lebon of his girlfriend, Adwoa Aboah, kicking around in some of the looks that will be on the racks at OC. For her part, Rose has a particular angle on the whole androgyny thing. “I wasn’t interested in androgyny as such,” Rose explained. “I was thinking about men throughout history who have broken the conventional gender rules of clothing, men with an overt sexual energy who used feminine looks to underline their masculinity.” Specifically, Rose added, her muse this season was Rick James. And as for Lebon and Aboah’s gender-bending? It turns out, Rose is plenty used to seeing Aboah in her clothes. “Well,” she says, “she walked in my very first catwalk show…”

Photos: Tyrone Lebon

Dominic Jones Goes Back To The Beginning

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Dominic Jones Spring '14Antelope horns, fanged jaws, shark teeth, and manta rays—all cast in brass and dipped in various hues of gold—are the centerpieces of Dominic Jones’ Spring ’14 collection. Now in his ninth season, the 28-year-old designer, who counts the likes of Beyoncé and Rihanna among his fans, was inspired by natural forms and evolution within nature. And while the London-based talent’s ability to constantly push his futuristic-meets-organic aesthetic forward is largely what editors and top-tier retailers (like Barneys, Net-a-Porter, and 10 Corso Como, among many others) find so appealing, his Spring lineup grew out of the past. In fact, it is a reimagining of his Fall ‘10 offering (his second ever), which he’s elevated by applying the technical skills he’s acquired over the years.

Jones is a hands-on kind of guy. “I design as I go. My brain works more traditionally, and I very much like my technique of working with my fingers, saws, and files,” he explained. But one of the “new skills” he utilizes for Spring is 3-D printing. For instance, he created his deadly but seductive ram’s-horn-shaped choker with a hand-carved mold, but he used 3-D printing to shrink it down and pop out frames for identical rings and bracelets. “3-D design can feel a bit soulless,” Jones said. “The products are often really interesting and intricate, but they lose the warmth you see in handmade pieces.” His 3-D printed baubles, however, are all finished by Jones himself rather than a machine. As he puts it, “It’s the best of both worlds. And it’s already triggered my brain into new ways of approaching design. It’s like finding a new door in your house that you’ve never walked through.” Continue Reading “Dominic Jones Goes Back To The Beginning” »