7 posts tagged "A.F. Vandevorst"
Hyundai may be best known as a South Korean car manufacturer, but it also dabbles in fashion through a division called Handsome. During the Paris collections, Handsome jumped into the City of Light’s shopping scene by opening a Marais outpost of Tom Greyhound, its multibrand concept store. (Check out the Seoul outpost here.)
Tom Greyhound. The name sounds like a cartoon character, and the store’s not-so-vaguely Batman-esque design reinforces that impression. One spin through the racks, however, and everything snaps into focus. A savvy mix of emerging and international talent—including Rag & Bone, Peter Pilotto, 3.1 Phillip Lim, J.W. Anderson, Christopher Kane, Thakoon, Opening Ceremony, and A.F. Vandevorst, among others—comes arranged by theme, not by brand, and the cozy, loft-style layout is sure to please men and women trying to track down labels that, until now, have been hard to find in Paris.
Tom Greyhound is located at 19 Rue de Saintonge, Paris, 75003.
The Spring ’14 collections are under way in Paris, and before their new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. Our entire selection of Spring ’14 previews is available here.
WHO: A.F. Vandevorst, designed by An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx
WHEN: Friday, September 27
WHAT: “Rediscovering, reinterpreting, and reexploring fifteen years of A.F. Vandevorst.” — An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx. The designers sent us a Spring ’14 look, above.
As creative director of her family’s business, Selfridges’ Alannah Weston has turned the massive department store on London’s Oxford Street into her private fiefdom of fun with a series of large-scale events that have brought together artists, filmmakers, musicians, and designers in the name of underscoring the store’s retail vision. Wednesday night saw one of the smartest, artiest events yet, to mark the opening of the Women’s Designer Galleries. Curator Emma Reeves commissioned a set of short films to interpret seven of the collections carried in the new space. The single criterion? A strong female character at the heart of each film. For Ann Demeulemeester, for instance, Michael Pitt filmed his fiancée, Jamie Bochert, as a wraithlike figure moving through the desert (top), like a contemporary version of Isabelle Eberhardt, the 19th-century French traveler who inspired the designer’s collection. For Comme des Garçons, Katerina Jebb filmed concert pianist Madeleine Malraux, the widow of cultural nabob André Malraux, still playing at the age of 90.
Ruth Hogben made a typically brilliant piece of film for Gareth Pugh (above), a hectic slice of Cabaret-style decadence. She also created a sepulchral German-expressionist short for Rick Owens: harsh angles, shadowy reveals, eldritch textures, and an opera soundtrack. Her grasp of atmospheric moviemaking is so acute it came as a surprise to hear Hogben admit that all she wants to do is take still pictures. I swear everybody’s going to be reading real books again in a few years.
Speaking of atmosphere, set designer Simon Costin has made Mars out of molehills, and here he turned the derelict Selfridges’ hotel into an outlying branch of the Overlook, with curtained-off spaces intended to obliquely echo the building’s former use. There were “rooms” with oversize sofas, long dining tables, cracked vanity tables, and huge beds, with the movies projected on the ceiling above them. That was how we got to see an edit of the film Christopher Doyle had made, but not used, as the backdrop for Dries Van Noten’s show for Fall 2005. (Technical issues pulled it at the last minute.) Doyle was the man whose camerawork made In the Mood for Love into the swoonsville date movie of the millennium. A perfect match for Dries’s own romantic leanings. It was kinda nice watching it lying down, too.
Funny, only one of the films—the McQueen one—really featured recognizable clothes. The others were all projections, figurative and literal, like Delfine Balfort’s erotic equine dance for A.F. Vandevorst. You can see them all on Selfridges’ Web site, but you’ve got till March 26 to experience them in person. More fun that way.
A few years ago, A.F. Vandevorst‘s Filip Arickx and An Vandevorst started opening “guerrilla” shops in neglected buildings in northern Europe; more recently, they’ve taken to the road with a clothes-selling installation they’ve dubbed The Smallest Traveling Store in the World.
The name is much more unwieldy than the thing itself, which fits neatly into two crates and takes up a mere three square meters when it’s traveling, Arickx explained last night at the Tribeca boutique Patron of the New. He was minding the front corner of the boutique, where he and Vandevorst had set up his hospital-themed mini-shop, the centerpiece of which is an old Red Cross bed his father salvaged for him when he was 12. “The Red Cross in the village where I lived, they were changing furniture,” the Belgian designer said. He and his wife and co-designer, he added, both have a bit of a thing for hospitals.
The duo returns to Europe tomorrow to get ready for the Paris shows, but the traveling shop’s North American tour has just begun. “It has a visa for one year,” Arickx reported. He wants to take it to Canada, he said, but the actual itinerary at this point is anyone’s guess. “Who knows? It can be very spontaneous.”