13 posts tagged "Akris"
Achtung-Mode—Germany’s pioneering indie fashion and culture magazine—is debuting its Bauhaus-themed tenth anniversary issue tomorrow. And to celebrate the decade milestone, founder Markus Ebner decided he wanted to offer up a little something special. “When magazines turn ten, or twenty, or whatever, there’s not that much you can do,” he told Style.com. “I mean, you can do ten covers, you can ask designers to write letters saying, ‘Dear Whoever, Happy Tenth Anniversary!’, but I wanted to do something not like that.” His answer? A capsule collection of ten special-edition items crafted—and photographed—by some of the most exciting German, Austrian, and Swiss brands and talents. For instance, there’s a luxe leather bag by Akris (snapped by Sandra Semburg), a suit by Regent that was handmade in Germany (shot by Michael Mann, below, left), a crisp white shirt by the legendary Jil Sander (lensed by Mary Scherpe, below, right), an amulet by Tomas Maier (shot by Oliver Helbig), a parka by Kostas Murkudis (captured by Jork Weismann) and some cashmere Agnona socks by honorary German, Stefano Pilati (photographed in a field by Debora Mittelstaedt). “He’s been living in Berlin for the last year and a half, and he’s such an important designer, and he’s opening a studio there and hiring people, so that’s exciting for us,” offered Ebner.
The items will be available at Andreas Murkudis’ Berlin concept store, which Ebner describes as the “Colette of Germany.” As for the editorial photographs of the anniversary merch, they’ll not only be included in the new issue, but displayed alongside their corresponding products Murkudis’ store. If you’re lusting over these creations, you’d better scoot to Berlin quickly as quantities are limited. Fittingly, only ten editions of each product were produced.
The Met’s Punk: Chaos to Couture curator, Andrew Bolton, reportedly professed that pink is the color of punk. But, judging by the Resort collections, such associations are all but gone. Designers are swapping angst for allure, offering a noticeably softer take on all things coral and flush. Michael Kors, for example, afforded a bubblegum-colored jumper, replete with a mega-size turtleneck and lots of cozy fuzz (above, center). Max Mara showed a slouchy hooded overcoat in rosebud (above, left), and Giorgio Armani channeled a candy striper with a neat, structured blazer in magenta and golden stripes.
Moving beyond outerwear, Oscar de la Renta paired a cropped jacket in a cotton-candy shade with a matching top and electric-roseate skirt (above, right), and at Akris, Albert Kriemler invoked the arresting palette of Luis Barragán’s Cuadra San Cristobal estate on the outskirts of Mexico City—the result was a collection boasting shades of the manor’s pink stucco and serene fuchsia sunsets.
Alicia Keys kicked off her international Set the World on Fire tour on March 7. And according to her stylist, Laura Jones, her performances are all about the singing, rather than fancy costumes (unlike some pop stars). “Alicia doesn’t like to do a lot of costume changes. We’re not trying to build up some big embellished look [and] we didn’t want her to be hidden by the clothes,” says Jones, who’s been dressing Keys for a year. (They met while Jones was assisting Edward Enninful at W magazine.) But just because Keys is all about the notes doesn’t mean she neglects her onstage aesthetic. For the tour, Jones tells us that they went for strong, sexy, and sophisticated. “Alicia really, really loves clothes and she’s really hands on. She’s hit a place in her life where she’s feeling really confident. We wanted her wardrobe to reflect that,” explains Jones. In order to achieve Keys’ bold but pared-down look, Jones enlisted the help of Michael Kors (who designed the shimmering blue gown Keys wears at the end of her set, as well as the red stunner she donned while singing at the Inauguration last January) and Akris’ Albert Kriemler, who created a host of custom wares.
“The focus was on details, fit, and flattering cuts,” says Jones, noting that Kriemler worked closely with her and Keys for months (in fact, before he met the star, Jones sent him YouTube videos of Keys performing so he could get a sense of how she moves on stage). “It’s all about understanding how she’s going to perform and knowing what fabrics are camera friendly and body friendly,” she adds. (Apparently, jersey is a safe bet for all of the above.) “My job is to make sure the clothes never get in the way of her performance. They should maximize her movements, maximize how she feels, and be a great marriage of functionality, sophistication, and longevity. She’s touring for the rest of the year, so she needs to wear something that won’t feel stale in a couple of months,” offers Jones, explaining that the designers made Alicia around seven different outfits so that she can change up her visage from one performance to the next.
As for the end result, it seems Keys’ team nailed it—last night, the singer gave an animated performance at L.A.’s Staples Center in an Akris V-neck paillette bodysuit and a black Maison Michel hat. So how does the singer feel about her Set the World on Fire wardrobe? “The tour is about a journey to freedom and personal strength,” Keys told Style.com. “I wanted to embody that energy and spirit. The Akris looks that Albert Kriemler designed for me are the perfect balance of striking, strong, glamorous, and chic. I feel empowered on stage wearing them.” Jones was pretty happy about it, too. “When you see it on stage, and everyone is screaming, and she looks so divine, you know you’ve done a good job. And that feels great.”
Artist Matthew Day Jackson’s Lem Interior went for $88,000 during the live auction at last night’s W magazine and Akris-sponsored Ballroom Marfa benefit. It was made from scorched wood and looked like the interior of a lunar exploration module that had been burnt crispy upon re-entry into Earth’s atmosphere, but it wasn’t the strangest work of art on display at the Chelsea event space Center548. That prize went to Maria Jose Arjona, a performance artist who sat in a wooden chair suspended horizontally from pipes high above the heads of guests like Anh Duong, Yvonne Force Villareal, Cornelia Guest, and Cynthia Rowley for the duration of the party—cocktails, dinner, and dancing. There was no bidding on her, and it’s probably just as well. The piece was uninsurable. According to a Marfa, Texas, local who helped install Arjona before the fête, “She didn’t want a net.”
It’s a new year, and what better way to wipe the slate clean than with a crisp white men’s shirt? For Spring, designers focused on classic sportswear, and they put that perennial favorite, the button-up, front-row and center. At Akris and Dries Van Noten, seriously oversized shirts—worn as a day dress and over a sequined skirt, respectively—riffed on the borrowed-from-the-boyfriend look. Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren based their entire collection on the men’s shirt, though in typical V&R fashion, the results were anything but basic: A cuffed oxford paired with black pants seemed simple enough from the front, but it turned out to have a cascading train in back. There were also plenty of more straightforward options, including Michael Kors‘ untucked take. With so many designers embracing the timeless trend this season, maybe we can live out our Mad Men fantasy (well, one of them, anyway) and keep a stack of pressed shirts in our desk drawer—just like Don Draper.
Click for a slideshow, and let us know if you think men’s shirts are fresh again for the new year.