5 posts tagged "Alan Eckstein"
New York fashion week is fast approaching, and things just got a little more exciting for three young designers. For the past thirteen years, Ecco Domani Wines of Italy has awarded a trio of $25,000 grants to up-and-coming New York brands that embrace “good taste” and “everyday style,” and today it announced its 2014 winners: Timo Weiland (designed by Timo Weiland, Alan Eckstein, and Donna Kang), DEGEN by Lindsay Degen (who, pictured left, designed some clever body stockings and socks for the 2013 Victoria’s Secret runway), and Novis by Jordana Warmflash. While the labels are each very distinct—Weiland is known for his romantic-meets-downtown style, DEGEN specializes in playful handmade knitwear, and Novis favors bold colors and vintage-inspired silhouettes—Ecco Domani sees each one as a key player in the future of fashion. If past recipients are any indication (Proenza Schouler, Derek Lam, Altuzarra, and Alexander Wang are just a few), these on-the-rise designers have a very bright future ahead.
Today, the CFDA Incubator welcomes its newest group of initiates: Antonio Azzuolo, Arielle Shapiro of Ari Dein, Doug and Ben Burkman of Burkman Bros, Christian Cota, Emanuela Duca, Rick Hendry and Marc Daniels of Isaora, Luis Fernandez of Number: Lab, Reece Solomon of Reece Hudson, Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein of Timo Weiland, and Maayan Zilberman and Nikki Dekker of The Lake & Stars. The selection committee of industry leaders, including Style.com’s executive editor, Nicole Phelps, carefully picked this group of ten young designers to follow in the footsteps of the inaugural dozen designers who kicked off the program in February 2010. We have watched the careers of current all-stars in the Incubator, like Prabal Gurung and Bibhu Mohapatra, flourish during their short time in the “fashion frat,” and here, we check in with the newest pledge “class II” before they move into 209 West 38th Street.
a. a. Antonio Azzuolo
This marks designer Antonio Azzuolo‘s second time in an Incubator program. After graduating from Ryerson University, the Montreal native took part in the Canadian version. “There are programs like the Incubator all over the world and I always wondered why the States didn’t have one,” he says. Following the program, he lived in Paris for ten years, where he honed his skills at labels like Kenzo and Hermès. Now, with his own menswear label, the designer is heavily focused on the concept of duality. “Being a twin [sibling], I have always had aspects of feminity and masculinity in my work,” the designer says. For Spring ’12, however, expect to see opposing French and Japanese cultural influences at play.
“I’ve been decorating my space in the Incubator for about six months now,” lingerie designer Arielle Shapiro tells us. “In my mind, that is.” Now that it’s a reality, however, she has an antique mirror, an old yellow Chippendale chair, and a vintage suitcase on hand to fill what will become her home-away-from-home. For Shapiro, her surroundings have always played a crucial role in her design process. Most recently, her innerwear and swimwear Invisible Cities collection was inspired by a trip to Rome. Eventually, Shapiro’s hoping to parlay that interest in architecture and interior design by developing her budding brand into a full lifestyle collection to include “more swim and ready-to-wear, bedding, and home.”
You might recognize the Burkman Bros name thanks to Kanye West, who wore Doug and Ben Burkman’s woven bracelets at Coachella this year. From rappers to rugged men, their casual menswear line has since found a steady stream of followers. For Spring 2012, the globetrotting brothers were feeling Hawaiian after a trip to the islands. “We learned how to surf and found a lot of inspiration in the Hawaiian culture, particularly in relation to how we like to use prints and color,” says Doug. As for the Incubator, Ben says, “Working in a proper office space should be interesting…To have that divide between work and our home should be nice.”
“The whole environment will be like going back to school,” says designer Christian Cota, who realized the wealth of benefits that comes from being a part of the Incubator program after talking to some of his friends in the current crop. “Obviously, with Diane von Furstenberg as the CFDA president, you have a tremendous support system helping you out,” Cota, who has received several honorable accolades in the past few years, like Fashion Group International’s Rising Star Award and a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund nomination, says. “I’m at the point with my business where we are really expanding, and having their help to do it is key.” For Spring ’12, look out for a strong showing of polished signature Cota looks, like mixing structure with softer fabrics, and a plethora of prints.
“My work represents my life experience,” says jewelry designer Emanuela Duca. “The rough surfaces, it’s what comes from the Roman culture, and the slick part, that’s my life in Manhattan.” Born and raised in Rome, the New York transplant has managed to find a beautiful balancing point between the two cultures in her work. Her structural collection of textural jewelry has a niche retail market, selling in galleries around the world, but Duca, like Isaora designer Ricky Hendry, wants to expand her business to reach a wider clientele with the help of the Incubator program. Continue Reading “Meet The CFDA Incubator Class Of 2014″ »
There’s a very open, very shoppable region between art and interior design, and a new Web site called Grey Area is plunging right into it. Kyle DeWoody and Manish Vora, the two young art-world insiders behind this new e-commerce venture, launched it last night with a party at the Wooly, where some of the site’s unique and limited-edition wares were on display. To wit: rope benches by Orly Genger, a resin cast of a Birkin bag by Shelter Serra, which sold on-site, and a tablecloth on which Ruffian designer Claude Morais had made an abstracted line drawing of a male torso (that’s the piece, above, modeled by Morais’ partner, Brian Wolk). “If you see it, you see it,” Morais shrugged, adding that he’s been painting as a hobby for years.
At the moment, Grey Area’s ever-changing online inventory includes bath towels by Tracey Emin and Ed Ruscha, wallpaper by Kiki Smith, a wristwatch by Tom Sachs, and E.V. Day’s playful encapsulation of the Barbie doll—she’s mummy-wrapped in a cocoon of silver and chrome. Grey Area commissioned some of the pieces, others not. It’s hard to believe the idea was born just two months ago, until you consider the founders’ powers combined: Vora is one of the New York gallery scene’s most active gadabouts, and DeWoody and her mother, Beth, are two of the city’s most active art patrons. The crowd at the Wooly included Nicole Miller and Jenna Bush, and had designers Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein (who have a Grey Area collaboration of their own in the works) in the DJ booth.
The site has some storefronts in its future, too, albeit temporary ones: a pop-up in Water Mill later this month, one in L.A. at the end of September, and one in Miami for Art Basel. Explained DeWoody, probably only half-joking, “We’re hoping to conquer the States and then move to Europe next year.”
It was scarcely a conscious decision that neckwear nabobs Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein would expand their year-old accessories line with ready-to-wear. “Timo and I just got to the office one day and started drawing out looks,” explained Eckstein at the duo’s debut presentation. “By the end of the day, we had a collection.” The clothes fall right in line with their cool, twentysomething take on propriety, best exhibited by their endless clever reworkings of the bowtie. Called A Life Full of Holes, the collection had the feel of eccentric and timeworn aristocracy, thus a watery floral they described as “decaying English garden.” My personal favorites from their cute layered looks were jackets with tuxedo details—a very tailored khaki trench with matte black satin lapels and a cutaway in ultrachic black and navy. At Timo’s contemporary prices, they’re a smart addition to your spring shopping list. That’s an important point for the duo. “We want people like us to be able to wear the clothes,” said Eckstein. New for their neckwear, Weiland and Eckstein teamed up with Bing Bang’s Anna Sheffield. A floppy black leather bow strung with chains is black tie we’d want to wear everyday.