65 posts tagged "Alber Elbaz"
If Paris has an answer to Williamsburg, it would be the area around the Rue Lucien Sampaix in the 10th arrondissement. The neighborhood’s epicenter is the Tuck Shop, the retro-chic vegetarian eatery and gourmet coffee bar opened last year by a trio of hip Australian girls: Anna Rice, Stella Rice, and Rain Laurent. Last night they added “art gallery” to their roster as they feted an impromptu first show by a fellow Aussie, Leo Greenfield, who’s been hanging around Paris since fashion week and working on what he calls “observational illustration.”
“I’m interested in the language of drawing. I look at [my work] as social portraits combined with journalism,” the artist said, surveying walls lined with breezy drawings of Haider Ackermann, Diane Pernet, and Alber Elbaz. Greenfield sketched these from memory after Olivier Saillard and Tilda Swinton’s recent Eternity Dress performance. Pretty good access for someone who showed up in Paris cold a couple of years back and just happened to benefit from the kindness of strangers, like Damir Doma and Joel Arthur Rosenthal.
Asked what impressed him the most about the Spring shows, Greenfield replied, “Comme des Garçons for its graphic impact. And at Haider Ackermann I saw colors I had never seen before, and it was all so fast I couldn’t draw it!” In any case, all indications point to Greenfield closing in on his dream life as an artist in residence: He has just wrapped a weeklong stint in Martin Grant’s atelier. “It was amazing,” the artist said. “He’s all about minimalism without losing luxury.”
In the fall of 2007—long before backstage was a thing and the flash of a camera was as ubiquitous behind the scenes as it is on the runway—German photographer Anna Bauer received an assignment from The Daily and road-tripped her way from London to Milan to Paris, shooting models, stylists, and a host of other fashion types along the way. She used a large-format Polaroid camera and captured the industry’s central figures in spontaneous form—flagging down designers such as Raf Simons and models like Kate Moss (above) and Raquel Zimmermann (below) during quiet moments and approaching them with boldness, trepidation, and sometimes total naiveté. “When I shot David Sims, I didn’t know who he was,” she recalled at the launch of her book, Backstage, last February. The results are eye-catching—a collection of raw, oft-revealing black-and-white portraits of the people who make the shows run.
This Thursday, Bauer will show the Polaroids—many of which first debuted in Backstage—en masse for the first time at the Loewe store in Madrid. “It’s a selection of about eighty,” said Bauer of the images, which include stills of everyone from Alber Elbaz to Iris Apfel to Juergen Teller. “I’m really happy because the show is going to give them another life,” she added. The earliest Polaroids on view were taken when the project began in 2007 (a young Agyness Deyn, a sunglasses-clad Karl Lagerfeld), while the most recent, Olivier Rousteing’s, for instance (“He doesn’t know he’s in there, because I didn’t know how to get in touch with him!” exclaimed Bauer), were taken just over a year ago.
Bauer said she has thought about shooting another group of people, like musicians or athletes (“just another extreme kind of group,” she mused) in the same style. But, she reasoned, “It could never be like this. I think that’s part of the interesting thing about the project—the condensed nature of the industry. We all go to the same four fashion weeks and the amount of people is limited. It’s a very close-knit circle of people.”
Anna Bauer’s Polaroids will be on view from September 5 to November 3 at the Loewe store, located at Calle Serrano, 26, Madrid, Spain.
As the Spring ’14 menswear collections wrapped in Paris over the weekend, a number of designers showed hyper-luxe takes on a bold wardrobe staple: the all-black leather trenchcoat.
Thom Browne‘s exercise in militaristic flamboyance offered a skirted patent-leather coat cut snug at the waist, trimmed with epaulets, and finished with heavy hardware. Hedi Slimane turned out a greased-up, banged-up iteration in one of his signature slim cuts at Saint Laurent. And lastly, Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver delivered a supple, wide-collared option at Lanvin. While Elbaz said there was “nothing techno or digital” about the lineup, one can’t deny that this piece recalled Keanu Reeves’ iconic look from cinema’s ultimate cyber film: The Matrix.
With all the talk surrounding the men’s shows, you might have forgotten that Resort is still under way, and, while browsing through the collections, we’ve noticed an abundance of bold, statement-making necklaces, which are giving soft Cruise looks an extra punch. Over at Michael Kors, we saw giant, bondage-tinged, padlock- and chain-embellished chokers, which lent a dangerous edge to ladylike dresses, overcoats, and blazers. Juan Carlos Obando turned out a cage-like collar, which he used to toughen up a crisp white bias-cut dress. “It’s a modern take on an historical tribal piece,” he told Style.com. “[It] allows the collection to embrace cultural values while endorsing strong and modern ideals.”
Meanwhile, Jenni Kayne‘s heavy draped metal chains added a new dimension to chiffon caftans and maxi dresses. And at Lanvin, Alber Elbaz’s chain-link necklaces and huge pendants—many of which had a hip-hop-gone-Egypto vibe—brought an air of irreverence to his elegant column gowns and bejeweled cocktail frocks.