26 posts tagged "Alberta Ferretti"
A new figure will soon be charged with the future of Philosophy’s dreamy sensibilities. Creative director Natalie Ratabesi has parted ways with the house in the wake of increasingly poor sales, WWD reported this morning. Alberta Ferretti passed the reins of Philosophy to Ratabesi (a vet of Dior, Gucci, and Oscar de la Renta) in October 2012. The brand’s Spring 2015 offering will be designed by an in-house team.
Ratabesi’s departure comes on the heels of the enigmatic news from Aeffe SpA CFO and managing director Marcello Tassinari that the company was “taking action” to improve the line’s financial straits. Though the split comes “by common consent,” per an Aeffe SpA rep, some might see the move as a reaction to the also Aeffe-owned Moschino’s recent success under Jeremy Scott. The hires of Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley at Marc by Marc Jacobs makes a similar case for big names to refresh a brand that, as Marc Jacobs International president Robert Duffy admitted at the time, was “getting a little stale.” Only time will tell if a decisive appointment at Philosophy will translate into a similar renaissance.
We’ve just passed the midway point of fashion month with the Milan shows well under way, and there have been plenty of memorable modeling moments thus far, particularly for newcomers. In general, the top-tier, A-list catwalkers have been more selective with their schedules, leaving room for fresh faces to ascend the ranks. Perhaps the easiest way to break down our favorite rookies is by hair color. By and large, it’s been the season of the platinum blond, with familiar faces Julia Nobis, Ashleigh Good, Juliana Schurig, Sasha Luss, and Devon Windsor making a strong case for bleached tresses (reminiscent of Khaleesi from Game of Thrones). Several new models have been riding Fall’s peroxide wave, too. First is ethereal Polish beauty Ola Rudnicka, who debuted at Prada’s Spring show and landed a spot in the label’s latest campaign. She’s turned up on just about every major runway in each city so far. Rudnicka kicked things off on a high note in New York, walking Jason Wu, Michael Kors, Proenza Schouler, and Marc Jacobs. She went on to do Burberry and Christopher Kane in London, and continued to take Milan by storm, bookending No. 21 on Tuesday in addition to walking Max Mara and Moschino yesterday. Another noteworthy newcomer rocking a flaxen mane is Harleth Kuusik (who currently stars in Proenza Schouler’s Spring ads). In New York, she did turns at Rag & Bone, Victoria Beckham, and Proenza Schouler, then followed those up with J.W. Anderson and Erdem in London. We plan to see a lot more of both Rudnicka and Kuusik next week.
Next up is the fiery-tressed group of redheads led by sophomores such as Lera Tribel and Nika Cole (who can forget her teased-out, lamp-shade ’do from Schiaparelli’s Couture show?). They are joined by Quebec native Sophie Touchet, who made an early impact at Thakoon, 3.1 Phillip Lim, MBMJ (a.k.a. Marc by Marc Jacobs), and Burberry Prorsum, then moved on to open Alberta Ferretti and walk in Fendi yesterday. Finally, we’ve got a mixed bag of brunettes, ranging from Dutch stunner Imaan Hammam (she won the genetic lottery with a Moroccan mother and a father from Egypt, and her exotic looks have helped earn her key spots in top-tier casts including Prada, Proenza Schouler, Narciso Rodriguez, and Fendi) to fierce-looking Ronja Furrer (that strong jawline gave her an edge at Altuzarra, Alexander Wang, Christopher Kane, and more). And how about this season’s most buzzed-about newcomer? Waleska Gorczevski has a hell of a name and a hell of a presence. During NYFW, the Brazilian model was the first girl out at Marc Jacobs. She also opened Yigal Azrouël and bookended Victoria Beckham, and has continued to rack up an impressive show list including Calvin Klein Collection, Hugo Boss, Proenza Schouler, Christopher Kane, and Fendi. No doubt Paris will take to her serene, slightly quirky appeal.
Aside from Fall’s freshman class of catwalkers, we’ve witnessed plenty of noteworthy cameos by old-school veterans, too. For example, Alexander Wang’s finale featured the likes of Angela Lindvall, Bridget Hall, Candice Swanepoel, Caroline Trentini, Anne V., Hilary Rhoda, and Jacquetta Wheeler. Meanwhile, Karen Elson has been going at full throttle this year, and she continued to dazzle at Tom Ford, Donna Karan, and Diane von Furstenberg. On the other hand, we’ve got Karolina Kurkova, who surprised us by opening Cushnie et Ochs and turning up at Christopher Kane (where she was easily the most experienced model in the lineup). Other highlights included: Kirsten Owen opening and closing Mary Katrantzou; Mini Anden at Proenza Schouler; Liberty Ross and Stella Tennant at Tom Ford; and the triple threat of Carolyn Murphy, Frankie Rayder, and Liisa Winkler at Michael Kors. Last but not least was the brilliant cast at Burberry Prorsum, which featured Edie Campbell in addition to her two younger sisters, Olympia and Jean. Mark our words, those Campbell girls are stars in the making. And speaking of stars, you can’t deny that Kendall Jenner was a total natural on the runways at Marc Jacobs and Giles.
Alberta Ferretti has named Brit designer Natalie Ratabesi (pictured) the new creative director of her Philosophy line. Ratabesi, a Central Saint Martins alumna, will show her first collection for the Fall 2013 season. Of the decision, which will allow Ferretti to spend more time focusing on her main line, she told WWD she “thought it was the right moment to give a more autonomous and independent vision to Philosophy.” Of Ratabesi, who previously served as senior creative director at Polo Ralph Lauren, she says, “For her femininity and her energy, I am certain Natalie will be able to express the [Philosophy] spirit.”
Louis Vuitton has gotten The Selby’s Todd Selby (pictured) on the train theme that started with its Fall 2012 show. The French house had Selby travel by train from Paris to Shanghai, documenting his trip along the way. Selby’s photographs and videos are on Louisvuittonexpress.com, with plans to unveil a new leg of the journey each day up until the 19th, when the brand opens its first Louis Vuitton Maison store in China. [WWD]
Rosie Huntington-Whiteley reportedly caused a stir when she recently backed out of her position as the host of Project Runway All Stars after weeks of negotiation. The British stunner ditched the gig for a role in the upcoming film Mad Max: Fury Road alongside Zoe Kravitz and Riley Keough. The show’s producers found a new host in model Carolyn Murphy. [Page Six]
Just five years after being bought by the London-based private equity firm Permira, Valentino is being sold to an unidentified sovereign wealth fund. The fund is one of Permira’s investors and plans to acquire the brand for £476 million. [Telegraph]
Tom Ford is set to open his first flagship store in the U.K. The 8,000-square-foot outpost will open on Sloane Street alongside Chanel, Gucci, and the newly added Alberta Ferretti outpost. It is scheduled to open in 2013 and will house Ford’s full product range as well as menswear. [Entertainment Wise]
Following in the footsteps of Karl Lagerfeld and Giambattista Valli, Alberta Ferretti unveiled her limited-edition collection for Macy’s yesterday. To celebrate the launch, the Italian designer was on hand at the Herald Square store last night, where the likes of Glenda Bailey, Wendi Murdoch, and Mickey Boardman turned out to support her.
“It’s difficult because for a big designer, it’s important that the fit and quality is different from your normal low-price dress,” Ferretti told Style.com. “I’m really happy about the realization of the collection. They made them young, modern, fresh—not cheaply made. Maybe I will buy too, why not?” she added with a smile.
And shoppers liked what they saw in the collection ($49 to $119) of bright summer dresses and light knits, with the long white maxi dress being a crowd favorite. (At left, model Shu Pei Qin wears one of the collection’s floral peasant dresses.) “I would probably buy this and wear it every single day of summer—I’ve just got to have it for the Hamptons,” one shopper said. Will there be more mass Ferretti on the horizon? The designer remained tight-lipped, saying, “We did the Eco collaboration with Emma Watson and now this, so we are exploring other collaborations at this point.”