193 posts tagged "Alexander McQueen"
Over the past sixty-plus years, Façonnable has established itself as a brand that captures the essence of the Côte d’Azur lifestyle (think: a round of tennis followed by an afternoon spent sailing off the coast of Monaco). Best known for its classic men’s suits and signature sporty staples, such as polo shirts and chinos, the label is repositioning itself and reviving its womenswear program for Fall ’14 with the help of its new artistic director, Daniel Kearns. Before taking the helm at Façonnable, Kearns served as the design director of menswear for Yves Saint Laurent under Stefano Pilati, and also worked at Louis Vuitton, Alexander McQueen, and John Galliano. With this proven prowess in masculine tailoring, he rose to the challenge of creating his first women’s collection. “This is the first time I have mixed both tailoring and flow. Womenswear needs a more sensitive approach and is another mind-set,” he told Style.com.
For his debut ladies’ lineup, Kearns kept the look elegant and understated (for the most part), whipping up sharp tuxedos, slim sheaths, and plush outerwear. His looks feature subtle accents that recall Façonnable’s heritage, such as braided trims and belts (a nod to the brand’s nautical roots). With an eye on the modern customer, he added several pieces that felt a bit more fashion-forward, including novelty bomber jackets and a metallic rose-gold pencil skirt. Another major development here was the reintroduction of eveningwear, which plays an important role in Façonnable’s history. When Jean Goldberg founded the label, in 1950, many actresses sought him out for gowns to wear to the Cannes Film Festival. With that in mind, Kearns showed a handful of beautiful, body-skimming column dresses with capelet details in back—the style in crimson-hued silk was a particular standout. “When you think of the French Riviera, you think of Cannes and women like Romy Schneider and Grace Kelly in Monte Carlo, as well as the photography of Helmut Newton and all the artists who retreated here for inspiration,” he explained. Altogether, Kearns’ impressive first foray into womenswear (in addition to new advertising campaigns, updated branding, and refurbished stores) suggests a bright new future for Façonnable.
Façonnable’s Fall ’14 womenswear lookbook, which was shot at the historic Cap Estel hotel, debuts here, exclusively on Style.com.
The fashion biz has had quite a year. 2013 was jam-packed with major designer shake-ups, groundbreaking ad campaigns, celebrity collaborations, and pop-star performance wardrobes filled with custom-made designer duds. In the final days leading up to 2014, we’re counting down Style File’s most popular twenty stories of the past year. So sit back, relax, and relive 2013′s unforgettable moments. Read numbers ten through six, below.
10. Raf Simons Opens His Atelier—and Shares His Label—to Artist Sterling Ruby for the Most Complete Designer/Artist Collaboration Yet
When Raf Simons does something, he does it all the way. Case in point, his Fall ’14 menswear collaboration. For his upcoming collection, which will hit the Paris catwalk on January 15, Simons has handed his atelier over to artist Sterling Ruby. The result will no doubt be the most extreme art-meets-fashion experiment to date. Style.com’s Tim Blanks spoke to Simons about his latest artistic endeavor.
9. At Givenchy, Flower Power, Military Might, and Even a Cameo From Bambi
In May, Style.com got an exclusive first look at Riccardo Tisci’s floral and camo Pre-Spring ’14 menswear collection for Givenchy. Showcased on fuchsia-haired models, the collection marked the debut of Tisci’s controversial Favelas 74 shirt, which was later worn by Marina Abramovic to the CFDA Awards in June. Matthew Schneier gave us a rundown of the dynamic lineup.
8. Inside David Bowie’s “The Stars (Are Out Tonight)”
David Bowie had no shortage of headlines in 2013. In May, the rock star dropped The Next Day, his first album in ten years. His costumes were featured in an exhibition at the V&A, he starred alongside Arizona Muse in a Louis Vuitton campaign, and he was even named the best-dressed Briton in all of history. But his buzziest accomplishment was no doubt the music video for “The Stars (Are Out Tonight).” With a cast that included Tilda Swinton (a.k.a. David’s doppelgänger), Saskia de Brauw, and Andrej Pejic, the Jerry Stafford-styled film featured clothes from Alexander McQueen, Lanvin, Rick Owens, Raf Simons (both for Dior and Jil Sander), and Saint Laurent. Style.com’s Tim Blanks took us inside the making of the music vid and walked us through its lust-worthy wardrobe.
7. “Applause,” Please: Brandon Maxwell Talks Styling Lady Gaga’s Latest Video
Remember that time in 2013 when Lady Gaga announced her new record, Artpop, and from the moment she revealed its Inez & Vinoodh-lensed album cover in July, until she hosted her raucous Art Rave release party in November, she was all anyone could talk about? Well, during the height of the Mother Monster frenzy, right after she debuted her flick for “Applause,” Style.com’s Katharine K. Zarrella spoke with her stylist, Brandon Maxwell, about the characteristically outré vintage and custom looks she donned in the music video.
6. Jeremy Scott: The New Man at Moschino
After celebrating its thirtieth anniversary in Milan, in September, Moschino appointed Jeremy Scott as its creative director. Scott, who succeeds Rossella Jardini, spoke to Style.com’s Nicole Phelps about the new gig, poking fun at fashion and sharing how he plans to bring the irreverent house into the future.
The fashion biz has had quite a year. 2013 was jam-packed with major designer shakeups, groundbreaking ad campaigns, celebrity collaborations, and pop star performance wardrobes filled with custom-made designer duds. In the final days leading up to 2014, we’re counting down Style File’s most popular twenty stories of the annum. So sit back, relax, and relive 2013′s unforgettable moments. Read numbers fifteen through eleven, below.
Nasty Gal’s Sophia Amoruso has been a newsmaker this year, to say the least. Shoppers and insiders alike watched in awe as her business took off, and now her multimillion-dollar e-tail platform is set to open a range of brick-and-mortar locations. Style.com’s Nicole Phelps sat down with the 29-year-old eBayer-turned-CEO in August to talk about her passion for vintage, the New York fashion scene, and the future of Nasty Gal.
14. Delphine Arnault and LVMH Announce the New LVMH Prize for Young Designers
In November, Style.com broke the news that mega-luxury group LVMH is launching a 300,000 euro international fashion prize for young designers. Style.com’s Matthew Schneier spoke with Delphine Arnault about the new initiative.
13. Nick Waplington Talks Alexander McQueen and Working Process
Before his tragic suicide in 2010, Alexander McQueen asked photographer Nick Waplington to document the creation of his fifteenth anniversary collection, the Horn of Plenty. Waplington was one of the only people outside of McQueen’s studio allowed to observe the designer’s creative process, and his new book, Alexander McQueen: Working Process, provides an unprecedented look at the creative genius in action. Style.com’s Katharine K. Zarrella spoke with the photographer about the tome, what it was like to work with McQueen, and why the designer was so keen on preserving his legacy.
12. Alaïa Walks the Dotted Line
Whenever Azzedine Alaïa holds a fashion show, it’s a special treat. In March—well after the ready-to-wear collections had wrapped—the legendary designer quietly presented his polka-dotted Fall ’13 offering at his Paris studio. Style.com had a front-row seat.
11. A Man’s World: Nick Wooster Talks Pitti
At Pitti Uomo this past June, tattooed dandy and menswear insider Nick Wooster spoke to Style.com about the evolution of the Florentine fair, his favorite new talents, and why he’s a “Disneyland attraction.”
Last year, Gill Linton launched Byronesque.com, a comprehensive Web site that, backed by Andrew Rosen and the late Marvin Traub, offers high-end vintage wares and sharp editorials. The online platform boasts a veritable treasure trove of rare, authenticated vintage designs, like an azure Jean Paul Gaultier frock, an asymmetrical Yohji Yamamoto dress, and a bevy of Thierry Mugler and Alaïa. And while it all looks spectacular in one’s browser, Linton felt she should create an IRL experience with the digital destination’s best stock.
Enter the site’s first brick-and-mortar venture, Byronesque.com//Offline, an exhibition and boutique housed in the dilapidated annex of the James A. Farley Post Office in New York City. Offline is complete with video installations, melancholic wall art by Craig Ward, and a vault of approximately forty impeccably dressed mannequins. Yesterday evening, insiders gathered to fete the project, which was punctuated with a live Polaroid photography session by the inimitable Michèle Lamy. “It’s difficult to [decide] what is mainstream or not…but being here feels real, and what they are trying to do is very important,” Lamy said of the site.
“There’s so much potential in vintage fashion,” said Linton. “It’s made better, there’s a story behind it, and there’s a history behind it. The way I merchandise the store is through storytelling—there’s a curve of Vivienne Westwood from Pirate to Seditionaries, for example—but it’s not that it has to be a linear progression. It’s about the energy of stuff.”
The stuff on display includes a 1984 John Galliano men’s kimono coat from his graduate Central Saint Martins collection, Les Incroyables (not for sale); a burlap Alexander McQueen look from F/W ’02; a 1986 Azzedine Alaïa leather zip dress; and a Katharine Hamnett allover marijuana-leaf-print bodysuit.
Glenn O’Brien lent his support by co-hosting the affair. “Everybody mixes vintage in,” he said, “I can’t tell you how long I’ve had this Kilgour, French, & Stanbury coat; it must be twenty years since I bought it at Barneys. Vintage is kind of where the next ideas come from. You can be a step ahead by wearing something that’s so out that it’s just about ready to come back.”
Byronesque.com//Offline will open to the public on December 12 and run through the 15th. Located at the James A. Farley Post Office on Eighth Avenue at West 31st Street, the show will be open from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.