7 posts tagged "Alexandre Mattiussi"
AMI‘s Alexandre Mattiussi won this year’s ANDAM Fashion Prize in Paris yesterday, beating out an international list of contenders that included Olympia Le-Tan, Maison Rabih Kayrouz, Iris Van Herpen, Yang Li, and Masha Ma. Mattiussi will receive 250,000 euros and mentoring from Renzo Rosso. ANDAM’s First Collection Prize went to Christine Phung. She’ll take home 75,000 euros. At the cocktail party that followed the competition, Mattiussi revealed that he and Phung were in the same class at France’s Duperré School. Mattiussi does menswear and Phung women’s, but they took similar paths to launching their own lines, apprenticing at different houses—Givenchy and Marc Jacobs for his part, and Christophe Lemaire, Chloé, Vanessa Bruno, Lacoste, and Dior for hers. An award ceremony will take place on October 3, during Paris Fashion Week.
The Spring ’14 menswear shows come to a close in Paris this weekend, and before their wares hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. Our complete collection of Spring ’14 previews is available here.
WHO: Ami, designed by Alexandre Mattiussi
WHEN: Saturday, June 29
WHAT: “AMI / SS14 / BOARDING 9PM / 29TH JUNE // TERMINAL PALAIS DE TOKYO // PARIS” —Alexandre Mattiussi. The designer sent us a few snaps of his Spring ’14 collection, above and below.
“I always like to do fun, quirky things,” said Olympia Le-Tan, the French designer best known for her clever, literary handbags. Having presented her Bavarian-inspired Fall 2013 ready-to-wear collection in Paris’ Museum of Hunting and Nature last March, Le-Tan wanted to incorporate the space, which she recalls was filled with “heads of deer and things like that,” into her lookbook. Shot by Yannis Vlamos, Le-Tan’s Fall 2013 posters feature her Germanic pinup wares topped with drawings of various fauna heads—think foxes, deer, and bears—all of which were penned by her father, famed French illustrator Pierre Le-Tan. “We share a similar creative vision,” said the designer of her pops, who also creates the prints for her collections. “And I must say, I really like the smiley face he did (above). That was a bit of a liberty he took.”
In addition to the animal visages, Le-Tan’s lookbook boasts images snapped by Ellen von Unwerth (above), who, in part, influenced the sexed-up looks. “I thought the clothes were very her,” the designer offered. At the moment, Le-Tan is holed up in her Paris studio, working on her Spring collection, as well as her portfolio for the ANDAM competition—she was nominated for the coveted prize earlier this year and will compete against Alexandre Mattiussi, Masha Ma, Iris van Herpen, and others on July 4. “I’m nervous and excited,” she told Style.com. “I really don’t like losing, so I’m working very hard to make sure that I don’t.”
Considering the winner receives a cool 250,000 euros and a two-season mentorship from Italian fashion tycoon Renzo Rosso, the ANDAM Fashion Award is one of the most coveted in the biz. And today, the group announced the seven finalists being considered for the 2013 prize. This year, AMI designer Alexandre Mattiussi, the ever-quirky Olympia Le-Tan (left), Yang Li, Pedro Lourenço, Maison Rabih Kayrouz, Masha Ma, and conceptual couturier Iris van Herpen will be competing for the honor. The winner, whose spoils will also include his or her Spring ’14 collection being sold in Canadian department store Hudson’s Bay Company, 10,000 euros worth of Swarovski Crystals to use on his or her Spring ’14 collection, and support from Fashion GPS over the next two years, will be chosen by a panel of industry insiders—including Colette’s Sarah Andelman, Humberto Leon, Paris Vogue‘s Emmanuelle Alt, and Style.com‘s executive editor Nicole Phelps—in Paris on July 4. Previous winners include Anthony Vaccarello, Giles Deacon, Richard Nicoll, and Gareth Pugh.
Thirty-two-year-old Alexandre Mattiussi has been on our radar since launching Ami, his line of smart, approachable menswear, two years ago. And tomorrow, the Paris-based designer will celebrate a notable milestone: the opening of his first stand-alone boutique. A homey converted atelier in Paris’ 3rd arrondissement, Ami (which, you’ve no doubt noticed, is a play on the designer’s name as well as the French word for “friend”), fuses design elements Mattiussi holds dear, such as the parquet floors of a Parisian apartment and decor you’d find in a tailor’s workshop.
Mattiussi learned the ropes designing for houses like Dior, Givenchy, and Marc Jacobs, and his own line reflects his luxurious take on easy, masculine dressing. “I really wanted to do clothes that I could wear and afford,” explained the designer during a preview. “Ami is clothing for me and my friends. It’s not intimidating, it’s not too expensive, and it’s definitely not pretentious.”
On the racks (which he also designed) hang thick mustard and burgundy wool-alpaca sweaters, shirts in Japanese poplin, checked overcoats, and wool cashmere suits the designer calls “city but casual.” Like his clothes, the prices are “not intimidating,” too, starting at about $170 and hovering in the mid-three digits (although one of his sheep-lined denim jackets runs about $1,900). Also on offer are accessories like sleek brogues and floral-print baseball caps by the niche brand Larose (the first of several collaborative projects Ami has lined up). “I like the idea of a multifaceted collection,” says Mattiussi. “It’s not too conceptual or intellectual. It’s like soup: If all the ingredients are good and the result is good, we serve it up.”
Ami is located at 109 boulevard Beaumarchais, Paris, +33-9-83-27-65-28.